78 Degrees – an Australian whiskey with a twist

If you’ve followed the news, gossip, and under-currents of the Australian whisky industry over the last year or two, you’ll be aware that it’s an extremely dynamic scene right now. New distilleries are popping up everywhere; new releases & products are being launched; distilling methods and products are diversifying; distillery ownerships are changing hands; and the industry is genuinely in a state of “blink and you’ll miss something”.

In a space that is becoming increasingly crowded, each new distillery fights for its point of difference or to latch on to something tangible that sells their story. Phrases like “craft”, “finest ingredients”, “pristine environment”, “care and attention to detail”, and the classic “traditional methods” simply don’t carry much weight or meaning anymore, and – with due respect to all involved – it can seem a bit forced for those distilleries that have simply copied or modelled their plant and operations on the same blueprint and template as the many distilleries that stepped out before them.

It’s thus noteworthy when a distillery comes along that is genuinely innovating and doing something different. The 78 Degrees distillery is one such pioneer…

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5Nines Distilling – Adelaide’s new kid on the block

It was around 18 months ago that a whisky colleague of mine flicked me an email saying he’d come across a new distillery in Adelaide.  The operation hadn’t released any whisky yet, but he’d visited the distillery and was impressed with the approach being taken on site.  “Keep an eye out” was the intel that came my way.

Fast-forward to the present and the distillery – 5Nines – is now an established name that is quietly plying its trade.  And for those seeking diversity and variation from a single producer, 5Nines has hit the scene with a large range of whiskies that showcases different styles and flavours.

So what’s to know about the distillery?  Well, the name is a good starting point:  The owners claim their sole passion is to create the perfect spirit, and at 5Nines they’re trying to achieve perfection. 99.999% perfect?  That’s the five nines. 

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Iniquity whisky and Tin Shed Distillers

Looking for information about Iniquity whisky?  Read on…

In the busy, buzzing, and bulging world of the Australian whisky industry, it would be fair to say that the distilleries of South Australia tend to get overlooked.   At the very least, they don’t get the share of the limelight they deserve.

The reasons for this are fairly straightforward: (i) South Australia is not in Tasmania, where most punters perceive all the action to be.  (ii) The distilleries are generally small operations (with one exception), and the higher profile or “big brand” distilleries are in other states. (iii) The distillers behind the distilleries are modest folks who focus on making good whisky, rather than focusing on their social media and playing the popularity game.  (On that note, and as an aside:  I would not be the first commentator to observe that, in some cases, a whisky brand’s social media profile and volume are inversely proportional to the quality and quantity of its whisky).

The irony of this situation is the reality that, by and large, the distilleries of South Australia consistently make good whisky and are genuinely amongst the most lauded in the land.   All distilleries will generally have hits and misses over their journeys; the trick is obviously to have the ledger filled with more of the former than the latter.  One distillery that has excelled at achieving a consistent DNA; a reliable house style; and churning out a string of hits is Tin Shed Distilling Co through its Iniquity whisky label.

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Morris Whisky – Rutherglen shows its Signature

The Australian whisky industry continues to keep its fans both delighted and curious as the list of new and emerging distilleries grows – seemingly unabated.  It almost seems like a new distillery lifts its head above the parapet every month, and the latest to do so is the previously unheralded Morris

That much, in itself, is a story.  Many distilleries elect to announce their establishment through social media channels, and then drip feed news, pictures, and work-in-progress releases or similar teasers as they build brand awareness whilst waiting for their spirit to mature.  In contrast to this, Morris went about its business with almost ninja-like stealth, before suddenly announcing its arrival with the launch of its first two initial releases.

Of course, Morris is anything but a new name in Australian drinks circles, with Morris of Rutherglen being one of the most famous and respected producers of fortified wines in the world.  With such a long and celebrated history of making some of this country’s greatest muscats, sherries, ports, and tokays (okay, aperas, tawnys, and topaques), it was perhaps only a matter of time until they turned their attention to whisky.  Little wonder, also, that they turned to their ex-wine cask inventory to mature their spirit!

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Australian whisky’s beer loophole

Imagine you’re at home watching the Olympics, and you turn your television on just as the medal presentation ceremony is starting for the marathon.  You immediately notice there are two runners standing on the podium for 1st Place.  In an incredible outcome for the race, it turns out there was a dead heat for first, and the two front runners finished in a tie!

But here’s where things get weird:  It turns out that only one of the gold medallists actually ran the full 42 kilometres!  The other runner started at the 30km mark, and in fact only had to run the last 12km of the race.  And, to top it all off, that runner also received extra assistance along the way. 

Now that’s hardly a fair race, is it?  Clearly, the work, effort, and energy put in by the two runners was vastly different – but by virtue of crossing the finish line at the same time, they each received the same reward and recognition.

The above parable would never happen in real life and, yet, a variation of this is precisely how the Australian whisky industry operates.  Puzzled?  Here’s how it pans out…..

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23rd Street Distillery – XXIII Batch 01

23rd Street Distillery joins the growing list of distilleries established in the last 5-6 years that are now bringing their single malt to market.  23rd Street has released a small range of whiskies in the recent past with varied provenance (such as the evocative Hybrid, which was a blend of Scotch whisky and American Bourbon!) but the release of XXIII (Batch 01) heralds in a new era for their home-grown, signature style.

The site at 23rd Street Distillery – located conveniently on 23rd Street in Renmark, South Australia (about a three hour drive north-east of Adelaide) – has a long history in the drinks industry that dates back to 1914, although that was chiefly in the wine industry.  The site was acquired by Bickford’s in 2014, and a reported $6.6M (including a government grant of $2.3M) was injected into the project over two years to bring 23rd Street Distillery to life.   The distillery launched in 2016 and produces gin, vodka, rum, brandy, and whisky. 

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That Boutique-y Whisky Company – Australia Series

The global whisky community continues to grow, particularly as interest and awareness develops around the “new world” distillers outside of Scotland.  The craft whisky scene is nothing new to Australia which, it must be said, is exploding with over 65 established whisky distilleries now bringing their matured product to market.  In spite of the thriving local scene, few have sought or established international distributorship (mostly due to the small volumes being produced), and so whisky lovers outside of Australia usually have to go to significant lengths to find and try Australian whisky.  Having said that, the situation is slowly changing, and one big leap forward occurring this month is the launch of the “Australia Series” range by That Boutique-y Whisky Company.

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Highwayman whisky

Highwayman – A man on a horse, carrying a gun, who holds up and robs travellers on public roads.  Highwayman Whisky – an altogether different beast, as we shall see…

The “next wave” of Australian craft distilleries is washing across the nation at present, with the last six months seeing a large number of new names bring their debut releases to the market.  Most of those distilleries have taken the “traditional” route by setting up, distilling, and waiting patiently for their spirit to mature.  Others, as Whisky & Wisdom has written about previously, have adopted the strategy of purchasing spirit distilled elsewhere and then selling it under their own brand/label to establish their name whilst they wait for their own distilled spirit to mature.   They effectively operate as independent bottlers, until such time as the spirit they’ve made themselves is ready to launch.

Highwayman is one such distillery and operation.  Effectively established in 2018 by Dan Woolley, Highwayman is based in Byron Bay, adding to the rapidly growing number of distilleries in New South Wales.  Dan’s name is known to most Australian whisky enthusiasts, having worked tirelessly for many years as the brand ambassador for the Beam/Suntory portfolio in Australia, most notably with Laphroaig.    What many people weren’t aware of is that, during this time, Woolley would spend his holidays and time off working voluntarily at numerous distilleries in Scotland, the USA, Japan, and Australia, learning the art and craft of distillation.  Highwayman is thus the realisation of a long-term dream, in more ways than one. 

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Australian whisky has its Cardhu moment

Our Cardhu moment?  Yes, very much so….

Since the Australian whisky industry’s re-birth 30-odd years ago, there have been a number of specific markers or events that have indicated the industry is taking steps forward and leaving its fledgling status behind.  Like an adolescent transitioning to adulthood, not every step is glamorous; there will be a few missteps along the way; but you’ve got to take those steps to learn and develop.

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The Tanist, by Chief’s Son distillery.

As the number of fledgling whisky distilleries around Australia grows, an increasing number are now starting to release their whisky and bring it to market.   In fact, as at August 2020, the number of distilleries selling their legal, matured whisky is apparently 48!

What is increasingly exciting, at least in the eyes of this observer, is seeing the number of mainland distilleries establish themselves in the various states.   Our industry has never (yet) been large enough, sustained enough, or consistent enough for concepts such as regionality or terroir to be considered. It would be interesting if Victorian distilleries had a certain, common style that was unique and identifiably distinct from, say, WA or NSW – but perhaps that’s just a romantic notion tethered to the sentimentality of a Scotch fan who still appreciates a Lowlander being distinct from a Speysider and an Islay….

With that as a backdrop, Aussie whisky fans have rejoiced in seeing a number of distilleries establish themselves in Victoria. For so long the sole domain of Bakery Hill, there are now other players in the state, and one such player planting an increasingly visible foothold is Chief’s Son.

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