Category: Reviews

Reviews of whiskies

The Malt Whisky Yearbook, 2025

For many whisky drinkers and whisk(e)y enthusiasts, there are some annual events and recurring appearances on the whisky calendar that we eagerly await each year. For example, it might be annual releases (such as the hotly-anticipated Diageo Special Releases bottlings), or the results from any of the many annual whisky awards and competitions. However, for whisky lovers who are really serious and passionate about this great drink, the annual release that we most look forward to each year is the new edition of the Malt Whisky Yearbook.

The Malt Whisky Yearbook for 2025 is out now and, as always, it’s an absolute ripper of a read. Editor, Ingvar Ronde, has again outdone himself with a superb publication. This year’s edition is all the more special in that it marks the 20th Edition. Yes, this wonderful resource has been informing, educating, and entertaining us now for twenty years!  

So what makes this the “must-have” book? There are so many reasons, but the executive summary is that it is so many different things in one small package:

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Octomore Whisky (and Series 15)

Of the many whisky distilleries, brands, and names that make up the landscape of Islay, few are as storied or as enigmatic as Octomore. “The most heavily peated whisky in the world” is the tagline that invariably accompanies the name, and whilst that’s an easy feature or hook for the brand to hang its hat on, it has always struck me that it risks underselling the whisky. For there is so much more to appreciate about Octomore than its mere peating levels.

Octomore is not a whisky distillery. (At least, not anymore. The original Octomore distillery was in operation from 1816 to 1852.) It is one of three different styles or variants of whisky made at the Bruichladdich distillery on Islay. As such, the story of Octomore cannot be told without first telling the story of Bruichladdich.

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Kanosuke Whisky

Kanosuke Distillery is a relatively newer player on the Japanese whisky scene; even newer on the global whisky scene. Established in 2017, it has a backstory and history significantly older and broader than the age of its spirit, but in the increasingly crowded space of world whisk(e)y, it’s a slow process for newer brands – even those with quality products – to make a splash.

For all its visibility, profile, and its broad spread of enthusiastic fans, Japanese whisky remains something of an enigma. For decades, the main brands worked quietly away, doing things in a very Japanese way, i.e. setting about the making of whisky in a very methodical, no-nonsense fashion without blowing their own trumpet. In the tiny circles of the “single malt enthusiasts’ club”, we knew there were truly amazing Japanese malts being bottled, and this was – to us – happily one of the world’s best kept secrets.

That all changed in 2012 when a Yamazaki expression won World’s Best Single Malt at the World Whiskies Awards that year. Other Japanese whiskies won a bunch of awards and accolades at other awards programs and in noted whisky publications over the next four years and, suddenly, the secret was out.  Demand rapidly exceeded supply, and the corresponding economics ensured Japanese whisky was a scarce and expensive option for single malt enthusiasts. And so it returned to being an enigmatic product for most drinkers…something you sometimes saw and heard about, without really digging into too deeply. Kanosuke is one of the brands hoping to change that…

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Glendronach – A new look

The Glendronach distillery was founded way back in 1826 and, like all of its contemporaries and peers, has seen many changes during its long history.  The last two hundred years of the Scotch whisky industry is a tale of booms and busts, ups and down; Glendronach has seen all those bumps and handled the waves with the best of them…including having parts of the distillery destroyed by fire back in 1837!   

2024 sees the distillery refresh its brand and labelling, opting for clean, pared-back packaging and an updated illustration of the bramble and rooks that surround the distillery.  (It’s often overlooked that many of Scotland’s distilleries’ names are gaelic descriptions of their geography and environment…Glendronach is Scots Gaelic for ‘Valley of the Brambles’).

What is of note with this refresh of Glendronach’s branding is that it appears to be limited to the packaging and labelling.  Unlike so many other recent brand refreshes by other Scotch whisky brands, the core range remains the same; the names are more-or-less the same; and the contents inside the bottle remain unchanged.  Fans of Glendronach – and there are many of us – can breathe a sigh of relief.

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Angel’s Envy

The explosion in whisk(e)y making across North America over the last decade has resulted in many new brands appearing on the shelves of our retail liquor stores or behind the bar at the on-premise venues. Courtesy of the massive – and highly innovative – craft distilling movement that swept across the United States, many of these new whiskies have either eschewed traditional bourbons or they’ve pushed bourbon in new directions. Angel’s Envy is one such whiskey, and the brand is rapidly gaining traction…

In the big pond of Kentucky distilleries, Angel’s Envy is a relative newcomer, having been founded in 2010. That said, this was hardly a “cold start” – the distillery was established by none other than the legendary Lincoln Henderson. Henderson had spent decades in the game as a Master Distiller with Brown Forman, having been responsible for the likes of Woodford Reserve and Gentleman Jack. He came out of retirement to establish Angel’s Envy with his son, Wes, and the brand wasted no time in pushing the envelope.

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Whisky Candles

Whisky candles?  It’s not as far-fetched as you might think.  Of all mankind’s creations and inventions, the wicked candle is one of the more enduring.  The ancient Egyptians were using wicked candles as early as 3,000 BC.  Five thousand years later in our tech-heavy 21st century lives, it’s easy to overlook that the candle is often one of the first things we scramble for in our homes when there’s a power failure at night.  Five thousand years ago also coincides with some of the earliest evidence for the making and enjoyment of beer – a drink made from fermented cereal grain – and from which whisky is made.

Initially and primarily a source of light, candles came to be used in religious symbolism and ceremonies.  Somewhere along the way, they also became de rigueur for a romantic dinner.  Scented candles have been around for centuries, but are enjoying something of a resurgence due to a combination of growing interest in aromatherapy, together with society’s pursuit of more natural, organic, and environmentally friendly products.  For whisky lovers, the lines may have just intersected…

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Bruichladdich 18yo & Bruichladdich 30yo

Of all the distilleries on Islay, Bruichladdich surely has the most interesting story to tell from the last 25 years.  Yes, much has been made of Ardbeg coming back from the dead, and its story is certainly compelling.  Bruichladdich’s story, however, has a bit more grit.  Its tale speaks more of hard work and toil; of sweat and determination by a small and dedicated team of personnel; of a community that rallied; and an operation that ran off the smell of an oily rag.  Many years later, it also speaks of reward.

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Barrel & Batch Highland Park Cask #3439

Highland Park is a leading name in Scotch whisky circles, although it remains an enigmatic brand for some.  Despite being one of Scotland’s oldest distilleries, dating back to 1798, its location on the Orkney Isles puts it north of some people’s radar.  The brand has also leant heavily into Orkney’s viking heritage in recent years, and has themed its livery accordingly.  While its entry-level expressions sit comfortably amongst their peers, the aspect of Highland Park that teases so many whisky enthusiasts is that its high-end and special releases can often be up there with the very best that single malt has to offer.

Of course, if you’ve been in the game for a while, none of this is a surprise.  Indeed, it was over 30 years ago that the great whisky writer, Michael Jackson, declared Highland Park to be the “greatest all-rounder”.   And he was right – a good Highland Park will display a little bit of everything:  Malt, heather-honey sweetness, citrus, spice, floral notes, and a wisp of smoke.

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23rd Street Australian Whisky

The ever-evolving narrative around the Australian whisky industry continues to morph and develop.  One of the more interesting (and pleasing) threads to follow has been the increasing number of distilleries bringing new releases to market below the $100 price threshold.  23rd Street Distillery is the latest to do so, throwing down the gauntlet with an impressive new malt whisky release that carries a price tag of $80 and is labelled simply as 23rd Street Australian Whisky.

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Visiting The Macallan distillery in 2024

Even if you only have a vague interest in Scotch whisky, you’re probably aware that The Macallan embarked on a massive and – literally – groundbreaking construction of a new distillery in recent times.  Established on the Macallan Estate, just a short distance from the existing/old distillery, the new production facility is exceptional and unique in its design, its layout, its appearance, and its functionality.  The new distillery is also unique in its approach to whisky tourism and how it goes about welcoming visitors.  Visiting The Macallan as a whisky enthusiast can be a tricky venture at the present, and it’s not a simple exercise.  If you’re wanting to visit the new Macallan distillery and to experience one of their tours, here are a few thoughts, tips, and comments following our visit in April 2024…  Continue reading “Visiting The Macallan distillery in 2024”