For fans of malt whisky and, in particular, those who prefer their single malt bottled at a higher strength beyond the standard 40% ABV, there are some annual expressions and releases to look out for each year. The Diageo Special Releases is one such range and, for most markets around the globe, its annual arrival and launch is a heralded event. In a quirk of international marketing and timing, not all countries feature the DSR in the actual year of release. Australia is one such market and for over a decade now, each annual release of the DSR occurs in the year following the “vintage”. As such, March 2024 sees the arrival in Australia of the Diageo Special Releases 2023 range!
Category: Reviews
Reviews of whiskies
Nikka The Grain Whisky
Nikka “The Grain” Whisky is part of Nikka’s Discovery Series, being the 2023 edition in this experimental range. We’ll look at this in more detail in just a moment, but first some commentary on Japanese whisky wouldn’t go astray. As a category of spirit, Japanese whisky has had to ride many waves in the last decade. Prior to the 2010’s, it was (relatively) widely available; it was relatively affordable, and – like every other category of whisky – it would occasionally delight with something spectacular that made whisky drinkers take notice. Founded in 1934, Nikka has always been at the heart of Japanese whisky, but things took a quantum leap for the category in the 2010’s when a series of plaudits and accolades all came at once. Numerous Japanese whisky brands and bottlings won major awards in rapid succession, consistently outpunching and outscoring their more fancied and better-known Scottish competitors.
Glenglassaugh – Three new whiskies
Located up in the north-east of Scotland, Glenglassaugh is yet another of the many previously-obscure Scottish whiskies to have received a new lease on life and be thrust into the limelight following a change of ownership. Like so many others in this category, it has a long if not chequered history that has seen numerous changes in ownership, periods of silence, and stuttered reincarnations. Like its stablemate Benriach, Glenglassaugh is now on the happy receiving end of love and investment from Brown Forman, culminating in the recent launch of a new single malt core-range for the brand. The range now incorporates the Glenglassaugh 12yo, the Sandend, and the Portsoy.
Benriach – The Sixteen
The Benriach distillery and its brand is one of several Scottish single malt whiskies that have gone through something of a re-invention and transformation in recent years. Located towards the northern end of Speyside, not far south of Elgin, Benriach has gone from relative obscurity to much-adored in less than two decades. Attention and interest in the brand is set to further grow with the re-introduction of the Benriach 16, styled on the label as Benriach – The Sixteen.
Talisker 45yo Glacial Edge
If there’s one distillery that evokes some of the more dramatic images and sentiments in the world of Scotch whisky, it is surely Talisker. As a distillery and as a single malt, it cuts across the full spectrum of whisky’s nuances and features: Words often associated with Talisker include coastal, peat, remote, Highlands, sweet, iodine, Isle of Skye, wormtubs, smoky, brine, visitor centre, old, sea loch, Johnnie Walker, aged……it is all things Scotland, and has been since 1830. Fans of Talisker single malt have been thrilled to see its core-range and other portfolio offerings expand in recent times. From the widely available 10 year old, to the some of unique expressions in the Diageo Special Releases range, there’s always a splash of briny, peaty Talisker to enjoy at lots of different ages and price points. One of the more fascinating releases – and certainly one of the tastiest – is the new Talisker 45yo Glacial Edge.
Dalmore – The distillery and its whiskies
Dalmore – as a distillery, as a whisky, and as a brand – has had a dynamic, if not enigmatic history. Founded in 1839, almost directly on the shoreline of the Cromarty Firth, it is a Highland whisky that’s obviously north of Inverness and the allure of Speyside, yet seeming not north enough to trade on the geographical x-factor that the likes of Clynelish and Old Pulteney somehow cash in on. It purportedly claims the title of being the first malt whisky to have been commercially exported from Scotland, with cases shipped to Australia way back in 1870. Over the years it has been leased, family owned and operated, joint-ventured, acquired, and absorbed. In more recent times, it’s a brand that has gone down the luxury product road, drawing attention for its old/rare releases and collections that carried eye-wateringly high price tags. But for your average or typical whisky drinker, where does The Dalmore fit in to the current state of play? We’ll answer that in just a moment but, as always, some background might help set the scene…
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Archie Rose Double Malt
It is an interesting time to be a whisky distiller in Australia. The excise rate recently tipped over $100 per litre; new distilleries continue to come to market with their debut release; competition for the consumers’ dollar grows; the back bars at the on-premise venues are more crowded than ever…and all against the backdrop of rising interest rates and falling sales in certain price bands. You’ve thus got to “dip your lid” to the distilleries that are driving onwards and upwards. Archie Rose is one such distillery, and the new Archie Rose Double Malt is a great example of this….
Glenmorangie’s “A Tale of the Forest”
A Tale of the Forest is the new release from Glenmorangie, and is the third in their “A tale of…” series, following A Tale of Cake and A Tale of Winter. A Tale of the Forest is aptly named, for its aromas, flavours, style – and even its production – are all closely linked to the forest. Yes, really!
Let’s get the big and obvious feature of this whisky out of the way first: This is unlike any Glenmorangie you’ve previously tried. It’s an altogether different style, and – whilst it’s got that signature Glenmorangie depth, complexity, and mineralic note – it offers aromas and flavours that will have you thinking you’re a long way from Tain.
Waubs Harbour – Australia’s maritime whisky
With so many new Australian distilleries appearing on the market these days, it’s a challenge keeping up with them all. Whilst there’s no definitive or official number, industry folk estimate there’s currently around 120-140 malt whisky distilleries operating in Australia right now. Of course, the number of distilleries with matured stock being marketed and sold is somewhat less than this (estimates hover somewhere around 90), but the point is this: It’s an increasingly crowded space, and it’s become increasingly challenging for a distillery to stand out from the pack; find its point of difference; and tell a new story. One name that’s definitely singing a new tune is the Waubs Harbour distillery, and its Waubs Harbour whisky.
Waubs Harbour distillery is in Tasmania and, as the name suggests, is located in a coastal location by the water. This geographical fact forms the heart and backbone of Waubs Harbour and its narrative: It is a maritime distillery. The word “maritime” appears almost more times on the distillery’s website than the word “whisky”, and until you’ve checked out the distillery’s location, you could be forgiven for thinking they’re laying it on a bit thick. By drawing comparisons to the likes of Talisker and other Scottish distilleries that talk up the maritime angle, my initial thoughts were that they were overplaying it. And then you see the pictures….
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The Singleton of Glen Ord 40yo
Exciting news for fans of rare and aged whisky this month, with Diageo releasing the third and final expression of The Singleton’s Epicurean Odyssey series. The first and second releases were bottled at 38 and 39 years old respectively, and so perhaps it’s no surprise that the third release is The Singleton of Glen Ord 40yo.