Our annual take on the range each year, this is our piece on the Diageo Special Releases 2017 whiskies…
For anyone who enters the single malt whisky scene today for the first time, the choice and array of bottlings, brands and releases can be overwhelming. Three decades ago, the situation was very different when Diageo launched “The Classic Malts” – first into travel retail in 1988, and then into the domestic market in 1989. Those six whiskies (Glenkinchie, Cragganmore, Oban, Dalwhinnie, Talisker, and Lagavulin) became the avenue through which hundreds of thousands of people (including yours truly!) were introduced to malt whisky. For close to a decade they were almost the definitive collection and – notwithstanding the omnipresence of the likes of Glenfiddich and Glenlivet – it was only by the late 1990’s that other brands and recognisable labels started to consistently appear in regular retail outlets.
Never one to rest on their laurels, Diageo continued (and continues) to expand their range. The so-called Rare Malts range ran from 1995-2005, and the Managers Choice range also kept hardcore fans happy with its single cask, cask-strength releases. The original Classic Malts range was also expanded in 2006, adding the likes of Clynelish and Caol Ila, in addition to others that were custom selected for individual markets (e.g. Cardhu for the USA).
One of the longer-term and highly anticipated lines each year is the Diageo Special Releases range, consisting of a specially selected and crafted series of bottlings released annually each year since 2001. As the name inherently suggests, the releases are “special” and typically include Diageo’s rarer stock, such as whiskies from closed distilleries – Port Ellen, Brora, Convalmore and Port Dundas being four examples.
The 2017 Special Releases range was initially unveiled last year (as the date stamp would suggest!) although Australia is a little out of step with Diageo’s movements in other countries, and the 2017 range had its Australian launch just this week! There are 10 releases – all available now in Australia – and the line up is impressive as ever. It’s also exceptionally diverse. Here’s some fun facts about the 2017 releases:
- There are eight single malt whiskies.
- There’s one single grain whisky (a very impressive 52yo from Port Dundas).
- There’s a blended malt whisky, called Collectivum XXVIII, put together from malt sourced from all 28 of Diageo’s operating distilleries.
- There are three “ghost” or silent distilleries, namely Convalmore, Brora, and Port Ellen.
- Three distilleries from Islay; three from the Highlands (one of them actually Perthshire), one from the Lowlands, and two from Speyside.
And for those want the full specs, here’s the nitty gritty: (All prices in Australian dollars)
Blair Athol 23yo, 58.4%, European oak butts – $680
Glen Elgin 18yo, 54.8%, European oak butts – $520
Brora 34yo, 51.9%, Refill American oak hogsheads – $2,800
Lagavulin 12yo, 56.5%, Refill American oak hogsheads – $180
Caol Ila 18yo (Unpeated), 59.8%, Refill American oak hogsheads – $175
Port Dundas 52yo, 44.6%, Refill American oak hogsheads – $1,310
Collectivum XXVIII, NAS, 57.3%, from both 1st Fill and Refill casks of both European and American oak – $300
Port Ellen 37yo, 51%, Refill American oak hogsheads and butts – $5,000
Convalmore 32yo, 48.2%, Refill American oak hogsheads – $2,020
Teaninich 17yo, 55.9%, Refill American oak hogsheads and barrels – $550
The line up covers a broad spectrum of styles and flavours, coming from a special selection of casks. For example, the Blair Athol and Glen Elgin are both from ex-European oak sherry butts, and are thus richly coloured and reflect the spices, tannins, and dried fruits resulting from sherry cask maturation. Others, such as the Convalmore and Teaninich come from refill American oak and highlight the lighter, more tropical-fruit end of the spectrum. And, of course, the likes of Brora and Port Ellen are a law unto themselves!
Whisky product launches are a challenging affair for the organisers (and, occasionally, the attendees), particularly when you’re unveiling a line up of 10 different whiskies, as opposed to just a single bottling. It must be said that Diageo, Reserve Brands, Sweet & Chilli, and Leo Burnett – all collectively – did a fantastic job and presented the launch in a new and innovative format that got everyone involved. The format allowed guests to taste both the Collectivum XXVIII and the Port Ellen 37yo (the respective bookends of the evening), and to choose three further samples from well-considered groupings. Whisky & Wisdom thus spent some time with five of the ten releases, and some quick observations and comments are as follows:
Collectivum XXVIII
This was perhaps the surprise package of the offerings. The nose was malty and floral, yet soft and delicate. This was then in contrast to the punchy palate that delivered sweetness (honey), spices, and earthiness (particularly truffles) in a very powerful yet balanced dram. Impressive.
Blair Athol 23yo
It’s not often you encounter Blair Athol, particularly one that’s north of 20 years old, and particularly one drawn from sherry butts. The sherry was clean on both the nose and palate (i.e. no sulphur), and the spirit was robust and spicy – still allowing the malt to shine through without being dominated by the wine. Definitely an after-dinner dram by the fireside.
Brora 34yo
The format of the night meant attendees were able to choose one dram from the three ghost distilleries. An agonising choice then, when confronted with the options of a 52yo grain whisky (Port Dundas), or the very rarely seen Convalmore. W&W opted for the Brora. The nose had faint hints of sea spray, but the primary feature here was fruit. Orchard fruits on the nose (apples & pears), followed by wine gums and Wrigley’s Juicy Fruit chewing gum on the palate. The finish was drying and salty.
Caol Ila 18yo
The largest distillery on Islay, Caol Ila has occasionally had to run unpeated campaigns to suit Diageo’s blending needs, and the unpeated Caol Ilas released over the years have generally been quite interesting and pleasing whiskies to taste. This is no exception, and whilst the nose was light and herbal, the palate is where this whisky sings. It’s got a tremendous mouthfeel, texture, and body that is hugely oily, dense, and packed with flavours that balance marshmallow sweetness with malt and soft oak.
Port Ellen 37yo
One of the great dilemmas and quirks of Port Ellen releases today is that their rarity and age now surpass the distillery’s character and the original features that made it famous. (For greater insights into this, read here). The distillery closed in 1983, meaning any new releases today will be at least 35 years old. At that age, the spirit has lost almost all the peat and smoke that made a closed Islay distillery such a prospect. However, some of these releases do bear up under scrutiny, and the 2017 Special Release is – it must be said – one very good whisky in its own right. The nose displays toasted oak, leather chesterfields, and sand on the beach. The palate betrays the whisky’s old age, but it has sophisticated power with green fruits, dried seaweed and Nori. It’s earthy (as opposed to smoky), and the finish has the drying, almost sugary residue of lemonade.
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All the whiskies in the 2017 Special Releases range are bottled at cask strength; come in attractive packaging; and are available now in Australia in very limited quantities. Act quickly. You can also check out the official Diageo malts website here.
