What follows is a full and detailed profile of the Glenfarclas distillery. I’ve prepared and written up similar distillery profiles and feature pieces for many different publications and outlets in the past, and this feature piece will be no different. But, in the interests of full disclosure, let’s declare all interests: Glenfarclas is my favourite distillery. There. I’ve said it…
Of course, this is no secret – anyone who’s heard me speak or present at a tasting event will have heard me declare my love for this special Speyside distillery. So much so, I’ve apparently caused some confusion – I’ve been asked several times previously if I work for Glenfarclas or if I’m their Australian Brand Ambassador. The answer is no, not officially, but I’m perfectly happy to be an unofficial ambassador for a distillery that I believe is leaps and bounds ahead of the rest of the pack.
So, of the 120-odd distilleries around, why did I fall in love with Glenfarclas? There are several specific reasons for me, and each one of them reflects something special about the distillery. Expanding on each of these, you’ll actually get quite an insight into the distillery itself and the people behind it. So let’s explore what it’s all about…
First and foremost, Glenfarclas is a family-owned distillery. That might not seem like much on the surface, but it’s a key feature that drives almost everything about the distillery. The vast majority of distilleries are owned by huge multi-nationals or private consortiums. Many distilleries are just one in a portfolio featuring many other whisky distilleries and/or brands, all owned by the controlling company. As publicly listed companies, some cynics suggest that they’re run by accountants rather than whisky folks. The two best examples of the current state of play in the Scotch whisky world are Diageo and Pernod Ricard. Diageo owns 28 malt whisky distilleries, a number of grain distilleries, and owns brands like Johnnie Walker, Bells, J&B Rare, etc. Pernod Ricard owns 14 malt distilleries and brands like Chivas Regal and Ballantines. In contrast, Glenfarclas is one of just three single (and separate) distilleries from the 19th century that remains in family hands.
Glenfarclas was officially founded in 1836 by Robert Hay, being part of Rechlerich Farm. The distillery is near Marypark, in the heart of Speyside, with neighbours such as Benrinnes, Cragganmore, Aberlour, and Macallan not too far away. The farm was sold to John Grant in 1865, and both farm and distillery have subsequently remained with the Grant family ever since. Six generations of Grants (each named either George or John!) have subsequently owned & managed the distillery and today, John’s great great grandson, John L. S. Grant, is the Chairman, and his son, George S. Grant is currently the company’s Sales Director. (As a brief aside, the Grants ran both the farm and the distillery in tandem until as recently as 1987, at which time they decided to cease farming and focus 100% on distilling).
(Click on the images to enlarge)
One of the key features with being a family-owned distillery is that it brings and affords independence. The Grants can do what they like, when they like, and how they like. It allows them to do things that other distilleries can’t. The Family Casks series, launched not so long ago, is a great example – no other distillery could possibly claim such an inventory of casks in their warehouses, and this has allowed them to bottle single casks from every vintage from 1952 onwards.
Furthermore, many aspects of Glenfarclas and its processes/operations are very traditional. Some of these processes may not be the most efficient or economical methods compared to other options available these days, but the Grants would prefer to spend a few extra pounds and maintain the distillery’s spirit and flavour profile, rather than save money but lose something in their spirit’s flavour and character. A good example of this is the stills, (the largest on Speyside!) which remain directly fired, these days by gas. This is a rare sight in modern times – most distilleries moved away from direct heating years ago, in favour of indirect steam coil or steam pan heating. Direct heating – more expensive to run – can create a burning or caramelisation of the wash, and is said to impart certain flavour characteristics to the resulting spirit.
Of course, the Grants cannot be accused of being old fashioned just for the sake of it. In fact, they’ve been just as innovative and forward thinking as any other distillery, if not more so. Their 105 expression was the world’s first commercially available bottling of cask-strength malt whisky. As far back as 1973, they were amongst the first distilleries to create a visitor centre, and they’ve explored and trialled new technology when and where it’s merited. A great example, and a story that always warms my heart, is that they actually trialled steam coil heating back in the 1980’s. One of the stills was converted to be indirectly heated, and its spirit was collected separately from the rest of the “regular” make. Sensory analysis of the resulting spirit from the steam-heated still revealed that the character of the spirit had changed beyond recognition, and it nosed and tasted nothing like regular Glenfarclas. The decision was made then and there to remove the steam coil system and to revert forevermore to the more expensive and yet better tasting direct heating.
One of the other great traits of Glenfarclas is their dedication and commitment to quality sherry casks and sherry maturation. It’s no secret that using sherry casks is a tremendously expensive undertaking, with sherry casks sometimes costing as much as 10 times that of bourbon casks. It would be easy and tempting to reduce the proportion of sherry casks being used and thereby save money. However, the Grants have stuck to their guns, and Glenfarclas today remains as one of the truly great sherried malts. When I was at the distillery last June, the word was that Glenfarclas was right at the precipice of completing a transition across to 100% sherry cask maturation. And that, dear readers, is an incredible achievement.
But, ultimately, when all is said done, we love our whiskies because of how they nose and taste. Being family owned and using traditional production methods would count for nothing if the whisky was bland or of poor quality. And yet, for my money, Glenfarclas is one of the most flavoursome drams going around – not to mention one of the most consistent distilleries in the business. Other distilleries seem to produce a sparkling new release and then subsequently lose their shine, or they go through a period where their bottlings suffer in quality. Some make a game-changing modification to their process or plant, or they fall victim to economic pressures and have to cut corners correspondingly. Glenfarclas, on the other hand, has been consistently high and churning out great whiskies and new expressions throughout.
It is a long time ago now, but it’s worth emphasising that The Scotch Malt Whisky Society and Glenfarclas also share a special relationship. In any article written about the Society, it is almost de rigueur to mention that it had its humble beginnings on the day that Pip Hills made a fateful journey to Glenfarclas, purchased a cask, and brought it home to his flat in Edinburgh where he shared it with his friends.
Having visited the distillery on numerous occasions (hmmm…seven, on last count), I’m always struck by the sense of family, friendship, and solidarity. With apologies to Gilbert & Sullivan, John Grant is the model of a modern major gentleman, and he has gathered a tremendously strong and enthusiastic team around him. Whether it’s the talented Callum Fraser overseeing production, or the infinitely knowledgeable Ian McWilliam travelling the globe as Marketing Executive, this is a distillery that knows what it is doing and why.
Best of all, no matter what your tastes and budget, there is a Glenfarclas out there for you. The core range is impressive: How many other distilleries can boast a 10, 12, 15, 17, 18, 21, 25, 30, and 40yo whisky in their core range portfolio? Each expression utilises a slightly different make-up of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, European & American oak to achieve the desired flavour profile. (Of course, such make-ups or recipes may change in time as the move to 100% sherry cask maturation plays out its course). And let’s not forget the 105 Cask Strength expression, nor the younger 8yo or Heritage expressions that are still available in some markets. And that’s before we even get to the Family Casks range, which offers single cask, vintage year releases from every year from 1952 into the mid-2000’s.
So, if you find yourself in Speyside with an hour or so to spare – drop into the Visitor Centre and discover for yourself what a gem this distillery is. Oh…and tell them Whisky & Wisdom sent you!
Slainte,
AD
[Update – you can read about the Ultimate Glenfarclas Tasting that took place in Australia here]
