There are many things to like about William Grant & Sons and their whiskies. One of the things I particularly like is that when they decide to do something, they do it well: Can they make a classic, approachable Speyside whisky that has broad, mass appeal? Check. Can they make a rare, special release whisky that services the luxury end of the market whilst still delivering a sublime experience for the tastebuds and which justifies the higher retail price? Check. Can they put on a great event to showcase and launch this new expression? Double check.
Tuesday 23rd September saw the launch of the new Glenfiddich Excellence 26yo expression in Australia. Held at the elegant and ye-olde-world-charm Elizabeth Bay House in Sydney, the evening unveiled not just the new whisky, but also an incredible photography exhibition that captured and reflected the journey of the wood and the casks that contributed to the whisky.
Any whisky brand ambassador or even the typical whisky packaging that wraps most bottles will make a point of talking up the whisky’s “pure, soft water”; it will play on how they used only the “finest Scottish barley”; and they will give a nod to the “long and careful maturation in oak casks”. But how often do we actually think about the casks? Not just the fact that they sat in a warehouse for 26 years, but what about their life prior to that? For example, the cask’s previous life where it sat in Kentucky maturing bourbon? What about transporting it to Scotland for the second phase of its life? Or what about the simple fact that it came from a tree in the US mountain ranges and was felled, quartered, and allowed to season before the coopers got their hands on it in the first place?
This was the story told in the photographic collection put together by celebrated landscape photographer, Simon Butterworth. Simon is based in the Scottish Borders (that’s the region just north of the England/Scotland border, but south of the Edinburgh/Glasgow belt) and his work captures all elements of the outdoors – from the wild, barren, and lonely landscapes of the unsettled to wilderness, to the bustling and crowded streets of the urban jungle.
There were 26 photos in all (one for each year of this whisky’s maturation – did you spot that?) and it was a great talking point and mood point to sip at the whisky whilst viewing this rarely-seen and often under-appreciated side of the whisky industry’s production process.
The mood was set earlier in the evening with some fantastic food and great cocktails served on arrival. Two cocktails on offer, both made using Glenfiddich 12yo, and whilst I can’t confess to being a cocktail aficionado, I found them both dangerously drinkable and more-ish. Other siblings in the Glenfiddich core range were also on hand to taste (the 15yo, the 18yo, the Rich Oak, and the 21yo), and it’s fair to say that guests were spoiled with some exceptional whiskies and catering.
But the star of the show and the cause for the gathering was the launch of the Glenfiddich Excellence 26yo. Announced and welcomed into Australia by James Buntin, William Grant & Sons’ incomparable brand ambassador, there was anticipation in the room when the glasses were handed out…….
The whisky itself is no shrinking violet. 26 years is a well-matured whisky in anyone’s language, and it’s that classic age where the oak can often start to dominate the palate and overwhelm the DNA of the spirit. The casks used for this expression were carefully selected ex-bourbon barrels (American White Oak) and despite the age, it quickly became apparent that the spirit had stood up to the oak beautifully.
The whisky is complex, full, and delicate, and I retreated to a quiet corner of the venue with pen and paper to give this the attention it deserved. (And was subsequently joined by another like-minded writer who was similarly ensconced). My tasting notes were as follows:
Glenfiddich Excellence, 26yo, 43% ABV
Nose: Light fruit. Vanilla. Peach syrup, merging into peach cobbler. Then came grass and hay fields. There’s a note of citrus hanging around, which I found very reminiscent of real lemonade. The tiniest drop of water brought out heightened fruit notes and grassy sweetness.
Palate: It’s deliciously sweet! I found stone fruit; vanilla bean sorbet; and gingersnaps. The palate carries a bit more heat than the actual 43% ABV suggests, and if you’d told me this was 46-50% ABV, I’d happily believe you. As someone who prefers cask-strength whisky, this was an admirable quality to the whisky. Many bourbon-cask whiskies at this age can display hints of leather, pine, tannins and sap, but none of those markers – usually considered negatives – were evident in this very lively, vibrant, complex and enjoyable whisky.
Finish: After the sweetness subsides, the footprint left behind is cooling, and it’s only now on the tail of the finish that the drying oak becomes evident. The citrus happily hangs around for a bit, this time in the form of lemon peel.
Comments: This is a superbly crafted whisky where everything is balanced and well integrated. Bourbon maturation is evident without dominating; age and time in oak plays a hand without ever stealing the limelight; and – best of all – the signature Glenfiddich style still shines through.
Plenty of brands are pushing the sherry barrow at the moment, almost perpetuating a myth that an old whisky has to come from a rich, dark sherry barrel before it can be termed a “luxurious malt”. Kudos to Glenfiddich for doing what they always do – not following the crowd, but backing themselves and taking a different tack. This new 26yo expression plays the bourbon angle beautifully, allowing the distillery’s house style and DNA to still shine through.
The Glenfiddich Excellence 26yo will be available through usual channels with an RRP of $590.
Cheers,
AD
PS: You might also like our feature article, The three stages of your attitude to Glenfiddich: Like – Hate – Love
