Glenrothes. The name itself sounds majestic. Located in the town of Rothes, not far from the Spey, many wonderful secrets are tucked away in this great distillery hidden back from the main road.
The single malt scene was very limited in Australia when things just started to pick up in the late 1990’s and early 2000’s. But Glenrothes, in its distinctive, round, dumpy bottle, was one of the more exotic and “interesting” bottlings that would grab your attention on the shelves of the local liquor store.
One of the reasons Glenrothes stood out from the pack was because its bottlings were vintage-dated. In a sea of bottles with 12yo, 15yo, and 18yo age statements stamped on the labels, Glenrothes was all the more attractive with its labels declaring years like 1973, 1985, and 1989, etc.
These days, the vintage bottlings are still the norm, although some non-descript NAS expressions (such as the Select Reserve, Elders Reserve, and even the new Alba Reserve, which is a certified Kosher whisky!) are now available on the market. Glenrothes is a highly sought-after malt for the blenders; its rich and silky spirit adding both a lovely base note and a top dressing simultaneously. Years ago, the corporate word was that one in every 100 casks would be selected for going towards the OB Glenrothes single malt bottlings; today the figure is around 3% as the brand continues to grow in its own right. That might still sound like a low percentage, but as recently as the late 1980’s, 100% of all Glenrothes spirit went off to the blenders, and the owners focussed on other distilleries in the portfolio to showcase as single malt bottlings.
The distillery was intricately linked with the Cutty Sark brand for many years and enjoyed a long relationship with Berry Bros & Rudd. These days, the distillery (together with the brand and also the distribution) is wholly owned by the Edrington Group (Highland Park & Macallan are amongst its stablemates), and so it is no surprise that the company has access to some very good quality wood. 70-75% of production is filled into Spanish oak, which is an incredibly high proportion, noting the high costs involved. Production target this year is for 5.4M litres of pure spirit, which puts the distillery amongst one of the larger plants in Scotland. More on that shortly.
The distillery doesn’t have a visitor centre and is not open to the public, but if you happen to catch a glimpse of the place (which requires a turn off the main road), the first thing that strikes you is that it is not a small facility. For the size of the plant and the output, the mashtun – with a mash of just 5.4 tonnes – is surprisingly small, but it churns through the batches quickly, currently hitting 51 mashes each and every week. There are 20 washbacks (12 are Oregon pine, 8 are stainless steel) and 10 stills, and the stillhouse – or cathedral, as it’s known – is a glorious sight. With 11 warehouses and some 48,000-55,000 casks on site, cask management is needed “on the ground”, and this is one of the few distilleries to still have its own mini-cooperage on site.
I was a guest of the distillery on a tremendously warm and sunny May morning, and was shown around by the charming and hospitable Eric Jefferson, and then met up again afterwards with the ever-entertaining Ronnie Cox at Rothes House. Both men exude pride, passion, and eloquence in all aspects of their work, and they are a living metaphor for the Glenrothes brand and the distillery itself. Courtesy of Ronnie, I was fortunate to receive a bottle of the 2001 vintage, bottled in 2013. This will be released in Australia later this year and you’re in for a treat: It is an excellent whisky and a classic representation of Glenrothes.
Nose: The nose is instantly appealing & intriguing, offering up sweet fruits, nectar, soft citrus, and perhaps even cloves.
Palate: Being a vatting of several casks (and, no doubt, cask types), there is no one, individual character or spike in the flavour profile that leaps out at you. Rather, the whole experience on the palate is orchestral – many different features combining for a greater impact. There is creamy vanilla, more fruit notes (although dried fruits now), some soft tannins, and a wonderful warmth. At 43%, I felt no need or desire to add water.
Finish: One of those rare whiskies where the finish flows continuously on from the palate in a near unbroken line of symmetry and consistency. All the tasty notes on the palate are left on what turns out to be a very long and satisfying finish and footprint.
Like so many other brands and distilleries, Glenrothes has increased the number of expressions and releases in its portfolio – be sure to check out what’s in your local market.
Cheers,
AD
