The news and noise associated with the explosion and proliferation of new Australian distilleries popping up everywhere tends to focus on Tasmania. New distilleries on the mainland probably feel they have to make a bit more noise for their heads to be noticed above the parapet. (I say “new” distilleries but, of course, by the time most consumers hear about or experience the product from a new distillery, the venture has been up and running for at least a couple of years). Which makes it all the more impressive and endearing when a distillery just quietly goes about its business and lets others do the talking for them. Joadja is one such distillery.
Joadja is about a 30 minute drive from the New South Wales town of Bowral which, in turn, is about a 90 minute drive from Sydney. It’s an area of NSW known as the Southern Highlands – aptly named not just for its geography and topography, but also for its Scottish heritage.
The distillery’s site has a wonderful story, and it would be remiss not to share some of it here. Today, Joadja is a ghost town. It was a mining town that was established around 1870 and populated to service the oil shale industry. At its peak, Joadja was home to some 1,200 people, many of whom were Scots who were brought out from Scotland for their shale mining and kerosene extraction experience. The town was self-sufficient with its own post office, theatre, shops, and a school for the 90-odd children. However, by 1893, the valley was close to being mined out and production levels fell sharply – with the workforce dropping accordingly. The post office closed in 1900 and, by this stage, more efficient means of kerosene production had been developed, leaving shale mining a superseded and uneconomical industry. The mine closed in 1903 and by 1911 the town was completely abandoned. Over the next 100 years, the town would slowly decay and disappear into the bush.
Valero and Elisa Jimenez purchased the entire Joadja site at auction back in 2011. The site has its own water spring, and they subsequently established the distillery in 2014 and set about production. Having both been born in Spain but emigrated here with their parents when they were still very young, they’ve given a nod to their own Spanish heritage by bottling fortified wines (including a truly rich and delicious Pedro Ximenez from Cordoba), and they’ve given a nod to the Scottish heritage of the area by producing single malt whisky.
There’s been a fair bit said about the various different styles of whisky being made by Australian distillers. With a growing number of distilleries in NSW, we’re seeing styles and flavour profiles that differ significantly from the somewhat established profile that typifies, say, many Tasmanian whiskies. However, Joadja stands well out from the pack, thanks chiefly to its preferred choice of wood. Again, courtesy of their Spanish heritage and connections, Val and Elisa have managed to source some great quality ex-sherry casks directly from Jerez de la Frontera, Spain. And thus, whilst many Australian distilleries are using ex-wine casks from the Australian industry (although port casks tremendously outweigh apera casks), the bouquet of the matured Joadja spirit would fool many into thinking they were nosing something from one of the sherry-focussed distilleries of Speyside.
It would be silly and inappropriate to describe Joadja as being the Glenfarclas or Glendronach of Australian whisky but if we’re going to generalise or pigeonhole, then Joadja’s choice of wood and its flavour profile certainly puts it in that sort of category!
The distillery was purpose built in a small clearing in the middle of the old township, and the one building plays host to the production area (mashing, brewing, and distilling all taking place on one side of the building), whilst the other side houses the visitor centre / sales shop and some warehousing space for the maturing casks. A crop of barley was recently grown in a field adjacent to the distillery and subsequently malted, making Joadja one of the few “paddock to bottle” distilleries in the world. (Although, having said that, the spirit made from the home-grown barley is yet to reach maturity and be bottled).
The distillery is open to visitors on most weekends and runs free, adhoc tours of the distillery which includes a wee tasting at the end, giving you the opportunity to sample their current wares. (On the day of our visit, this included two malt whiskies from an oloroso and a pedro-ximenez cask respectively; an anise liqueur; a gin; and a pedro ximenez wine – all of which were top-quality drinks.) However, to make the most of your visit and to appreciate the area more fully, you should time your visit to be on one of the days that they run tours of the old town. These “open days” are only held a few times each month and require you to book ahead, but they certainly put both the valley and the distillery in perspective, as well as give you an interesting insight into a one-hundred year old abandoned town….something you’ll rarely encounter in Australia. The open days with the town tour cost $29 for adults and $15 for kids up to 16 years old. Full details and booking facility here.
Of the two whiskies sampled on the day of Whisky & Wisdom’s visit, the Oloroso cask (American oak, Release 4) was our preferred dram, and we left the distillery with a few bottles tucked under our arm. Bottled at 48%, the nose is rich, steeped in juicy oloroso, but still retains its cereal core. The palate is on the young side, but has enough maturity and density to showcase the dried fruits and sweet spices. The finish is long and consistent, without turning bitter or tannic. A 500ml bottle costs $159, or $69 for a 200ml bottle.
Sourcing sherry casks from Spain can be fraught with danger as the spectre of sulphur taint hangs over the industry. However, the Jimenez’s are cognisant of this and now go to considerable lengths to ensure their casks are clean. The spirit currently being released is still young although, as discussed in this article, Australian distilleries all have to find their own unique sweet spot that balances satisfactory maturation, cash flow and revenue, and losses through evaporation.
To this palate, Joadja is a breath of fresh air amongst Australian whiskies. It’s a small, family-run distillery that is highly focussed on quality and showcasing the place in which it’s made – in fact, Val and Elisa have made Joadja quite the tourist’s destination. Through its use of Spanish sherry casks, it offers a flavour profile quite unlike other Australian whiskies. Those who like their sherry monsters should check this out. More details at the distillery’s official website, www.joadjadistillery.com.au
Cheers,
AD
