It wasn’t that long ago that Johnnie Walker had a fairly simple portfolio: Red Label, Black Label, Green Label, and Blue Label. Today, each of those labels have their own individual portfolios! The Blue Label range is no exception, and it was recently expanded this month with the release of the new Ghost & Rare expression tagged as “Port Ellen”.
The Ghost & Rare range, launched last year with what we’ll now call the “Brora” release, is a range of blended whiskies that showcase the closed, silent and lost distilleries in parent company Diageo’s stocks. Hence the term ghost, referring to distilleries that are no more. As the names would suggest, last year’s release had the cult whisky Brora in the mix, and this year’s release features the biggie of them all: Port Ellen.
For those less well versed, Port Ellen is the holy grail of closed and cult distilleries. Whisky & Wisdom wrote a feature piece on the distillery and explored the dram envy that Port Ellen invokes, which you can read all about here. The distillery closed in 1983 and with each passing year, its remaining stock gets older and rarer.
Blue Label’s Ghost & Rare Port Ellen had its official Australian launch in the Bennelong Restaurant at the Sydney Opera House. Teaming up with celebrated and decorated chef, Peter Gilmore, a special dinner was put on for guests with a menu that paired superb dishes with, respectively, the Ghost & Rare Brora, the Ghost & Rare Port Ellen, and the standard Blue Label whiskies. Simon McGoram, National Whisky Ambassador for Diageo presided over the evening and unveiled the facts and figures as the whiskies were explored.
One of the admirable features of the Ghost & Rare range is its transparency and the information unveiled about what you’re drinking. While most blends’ recipes or constituent whiskies are closely guarded secrets or whispered but unconfirmed rumours, Johnnie Walker proudly tells you what’s inside your Ghost & Rare bottle. In the case of the Port Ellen release, the whiskies in the blend are Carsebridge and Caledonia (the two grain whiskies – both ghost distilleries, having closed in 1983 and 1988 respectively) and the malt component comes from Mortlach, Blair Athol, Dailuaine, Oban, Cragganmore and – of course – Port Ellen.
So, cutting that a little differently, we have eight component whiskies (two grain plus six malt whiskies), three of which are from closed distilleries.
What is truly fascinating about the Ghost & Rare Port Ellen is its incredible and unique flavour profile, in the context of what’s in the blend. With the exception of Port Ellen, the contributing malts hail from the Speyside and Highland regions, and not even Oban can claim to be a particularly maritime affair (despite how it’s marketed). Mortlach will inject its signature meatiness; Blair Athol its sweetness and honey; and Dailuaine and Cragganmore provide the grassiness, florals, and soft fruits. In spite of all this, the whisky is surprisingly coastal or maritime in character – dry, a little salty, and with an intriguing and appealing whiff of sea breeze. One can only speculate about the actual proportion of Port Ellen in the blend, but its influence on the whisky’s final character and flavour suggests it’s certainly a meaningful contributor. Whisky & Wisdom’s tasting notes on the night read as follows:
Nose: Gentle spices and a rich creaminess are the first scents to flit out of the glass, followed by some tropical fruits. It’s all underpinned by a solid base of sweet cereal.
Palate: The first impression is one of sweetness, perhaps in the form of stone fruit, although there’s also a pleasant caramel note that never ventures far from centre stage. However, with repeated sips and returning to the dram over time, it becomes increasingly drier and more maritime in character – old salty ropes, subtle seaweed, and perhaps the tiniest a wisp of smoke. It would be a stretch, nay, an exaggeration to claim you can taste any peat, but you can certainly taste the influence of peat.
Finish: The finish is where Port Ellen’s influence really comes through: It’s a dry, ashy finish that reinforces the maritime notes from the palate. It’s a long and lingering finish that is satisfying and not once turns bitter or cloying.
The Port Ellen release sits comfortably with its Blue Label stablemates. Bottled at an ABV of 43.8%, it’s a luxurious, complex, and entertaining blend that not just satisfies, but also showcases some impressive component whiskies. And for those who like to drink a piece of history, you’re being treated to some rare distilleries that have long since disappeared. It is, by definition, an extremely limited release and will be available for just a short-time. Available from good liquor outlets, the Australian RRP is $500.
With thanks to Diageo Australia and Leo Burnett.
Other recent Johnnie Walker reviews and write-ups by Whisky & Wisdom:
Select Casks – Rye Cask Finish
Blenders Series – Red Rye Finish
Blue Label – Ghost & Rare Brora
The new 18yo
Black Label Sherry Edition
Waiting to see if these releases will come to South Africa. They sound interesting and the fact that it includes closed distilleries make them very desirable. Now to see if they get here and in what price range they arrive…