Keen to learn more about Johnnie Walker’s Select Casks range and the new Rye Cask Finish? Read on…
Keen observers of the malt whisky industry will have noted the kaleidoscope of ever-expanding and diversifying product portfolios amongst the various brands. The days of a distillery featuring just a 12yo and an 18yo bottling are long gone…today it is de rigueur for serious distilleries to offer an entry-level NAS, a peated NAS, a 10yo with a wood finish, a 12yo, a 14yo port wood, a 15yo cask-strength, an 18yo sherry wood, a 21yo, a 25yo that no one can afford, and finally a release with a fancy gaelic name that will be mispronounced around the world.
Whether this is a good thing or a bad thing is subjective, and there are pros and cons on both sides of the argument. The marketing departments argue that they need more bottles on the shelf of liquor stores and bars so that the brand stands out. It also gives the warehouses and blenders flexibility with stock. And, for the consumer, the range of choice, variance, and price points forever increases. My personal view is that the industry is self-generating a consumer base that becomes increasingly fickle and with a shorter and shorter attention span, but that’s a piece for another day.
In the meantime, it’s been interesting to observe that the same pressures and marketing ideals have extended to the blends. Even the most traditional blends are having to come out with variations and new expressions to maintain interest and keep up with the Joneses. Or, in this case, the Johnnies.
Johnnie Walker is one such blend that has not rested on its laurels. Once upon a time, life was pretty simple: Red Label, Black Label, Gold Label, and Blue Label. This was the staple for so many years, and seemingly covered all bases. Then came Green Label (which came, went, and came again). Then Blue Label had to be expanded (King George V). The Gold Centenary Blend split into two (Gold Reserve and Platinum). There’s the enigmatic Swing. The deliciously drinkable Double Black. The Explorers’ Club Collection. And we haven’t even come to the super-premium offerings, such as the Odyssey or The John Walker.
For the malt whisky drinker or hardcore malt enthusiast, not many of these releases register much interest or cause a blip on the radar. But that may change…..
Johnnie Walker has released a new expression that – if not specifically aimed at malt drinkers – should certainly catch their interest. Yes, it’s a blend, in the traditional sense, i.e. a blend of both malt and grain whiskies. But Johnnie Walker Select Casks – Rye Cask Finish is a Johnnie Walker whisky with a difference:
- It has an age statement! It’s 10 years old.
- It’s been bottled at a higher ABV of 46%.
- The constituent whiskies were matured in 1st-Fill ex-bourbon American oak casks. (Not refills!)
- The vatting was then finished in ex-rye whisky casks.
Not surprisingly, the blend leans in a “bourbony” direction, with lots of vanilla, oak, and creaminess. However, the influence of the rye casks is neither a gimmick nor understated – it’s tangible, and rye’s signature spice is very evident. The blend has wasted no time in collecting awards, notably Gold at The International Spirits Challenge 2016 and Silver at the 2016 San Francisco World Spirits Competition.
Cardhu is stated as being the single malt at the heart of the blend, but the interesting thing to my mind is that, despite the 46% ABV, they elected to still chillfilter the spirit. This was evidently to maintain Johnnie Walker’s classic texture and mouthfeel – perhaps demonstrating again that the objective of any blend is to maintain consistency with the house style.
So, with that as background, how does it actually taste? Whisky & Wisdom sat down with a bottle and got stuck in…
Johnnie Walker Select Casks – Rye Cask Finish
Nose: Vanilla essence, rye spice, and creaminess. There’s some very gentle oak, fused perfectly with light American whiskey notes. The impact of the rye casks here cannot be understated – it’s front and centre. And I like it. Blends aren’t always known for their complexity on the nose, but there’s plenty here to keep you interested. With time, some forest fruits emerge, namely blackberries and red currants, rounded off with more dried spices and wood.
Palate: Sweet and spicy are the first two impressions. The alcohol balance is near perfect, and the 46% works well with the grain. There is some faint honey, a little grassiness, a tiny spray of lemon citrus, and a buttery toffee-ness.
Finish: Bourbon sweetness, more vanilla, and – again – that delicious creaminess.
Comments: I wanted to describe this whisky as being a bit like a watered-down Wild Turkey, but that’s doing both bottlings an injustice. My point is, this is a blended Scotch that strongly borrows traits and characteristics from American whiskey, and – to a certain extent – it does offer the best of both worlds.
Interestingly, I recently served this whisky blind at a gathering of some 20 malt enthusiasts, with the unspoken inference that it was a “regular” whisky. The only information I gave away was that it was 10 years old and 46%. Guesses from the crowd included Bruichladdich, Glenmorangie, Deanston, and even a Clynelish! When it was subsequently revealed to be a Johnnie Walker, the surprise and admiration was noted. This is a Johnnie Walker that definitely treads new ground.
Johnnie Walker Select Casks – Rye Cask Finish is now available across Australia, with an RRP of $70.
Cheers,
AD
For more of Whisky & Wisdom’s reviews from the Johnnie Walker stable:
Johnnie Walker Blenders’ Series: Red Rye Finish
Johnnie Walker Blue Label – Ghost & Rare Series
Johnnie Walker Black Label Sherry Edition
Does the drinker speak with a Mid-Atlantic accent after tasting this?
Never had this myself, but my partner in Chicago, Finn, had it a while back and raved about it. Definitely one I need to add to the collection. I always find it disheartening when folks dismiss Johnnie Walker, but this is definitely one that I agree will change minds and hearts.
Cheers – Peat