Morris has announced and released the third whisky in its permanent or core-range portfolio. Morris Sherry Barrel joins its two stablemates, the Signature and the Muscat Barrel.
Morris – a name associated with wine-making for more than 150 years – launched its whisky brand and its first two releases in June 2021, and the Sherry Barrel has joined the party some 16 months later. Whisky & Wisdom has previously told the full story of Morris whisky in our feature piece here (including a review and discussion of the Signature release), so we won’t repeat all the details on this occasion – click on the preceding link for the full background or to re-familiarise yourself with the Morris story.
Since our original profile piece in 2021 at the time of the brand’s launch, Morris has wasted no time in collecting the attention of the whisky community, not to mention collecting numerous awards and accolades along the way. Both the Signature and Muscat Barrel expressions have won an impressive number of gold medals, trophies, and awards at various international spirits competitions around the world, including a Double Gold and Best in Class award for the Muscat Barrel. All the more impressive when you consider that these whiskies remain two of the sharpest priced and most affordable Australian single malts – $95 and $145 respectively, in 700ml bottles.
Not surprisingly, Morris has released one or two limited releases to complement its core-range. A Tokay Barrel expression appeared as an exclusive for The Whisky Club, and one assumes that further editions finished in ex-Topaque barrels may emerge in the future. Morris also released a Smoked Muscat Barrel expression, although it would be fair to observe that that particular release split the pack somewhat, with not all consumers entirely enamoured with its unique flavour profile.
Meanwhile, what of the Morris Sherry Barrel? Like its Muscat Barrel sibling, the whisky is first matured in a mix of both American and French oak ex-red wine barrels before being transferred to ex-fortified casks for a finishing period. In this instance, the finishing casks are those that previously held Morris of Rutherglen’s 10yo Amber Apera. (The term “sherry” now enjoys protected designation of origin status, meaning that producers of the wine outside the so-called sherry triangle in Spain can no longer refer to their product as sherry. Australia now uses the term apera – derived from aperitif – for its home-grown product. However, since this is a whisky product and not the wine itself, the term Sherry Barrel can be used.) It’s been bottled at 46% ABV, which is the same strength as the Muscat Barrel release, and compares with 40% for the Signature.
Morris of Rutherglen’s Amber Apera is a fino sherry, which is at the lighter and drier end of sherry’s spectrum. (You might like to read our feature article, The whisky lover’s complete guide to sherry if you need to brush up). This is in contrast to the majority of sherried Scotch whiskies that are chiefly matured or finished in ex-oloroso casks. As such, Morris Sherry Barrel is unique in its flavour, and fans of the style should not dive in expecting something akin to a Glendronach or the like.
So with all that as background, how does the whisky stack up? Here are our thoughts:
Morris Sherry Barrel, NAS, 46%
Nose: The first nosing throws off a pronounced floral note, like a floral perfume, perhaps even with some rosewater thrown in for good measure. The second nosing betrays the whisky’s fino apera background. There’s a dry yeastiness to it, almost like having a dry white wine paired with sour dough. There’s also underlying hints of freshly cut pinewood.
Palate: Again, the fino apera is evident: Crisp, dry apples; Aperol Spritz; fruit’n’nuts dried mix. Some balancing sweetness comes in the form of Danish pastry, complete with a creaminess across the mouthfeel.
Finish: Not a long way removed from the finish you’d encounter with a hopped Indian Pale Ale. But it remains sweet and doesn’t deteriorate or drift to becoming bitter. A pleasant oakiness underpins the whisky’s footprint, with some vanilla, together with Arnotts Milk Arrowroot biscuits. There’s also a faint smokiness lurking in the background.
Comments: It’s important to appreciate that the sherry barrel influence here is from fino apera and not oloroso. Accordingly, fans of sherried whiskies in the style of Glenfarclas/Glendronach – or, closer to home, Amber Lane or Joadja – looking for something along those line will need to adjust their expectations. There’s a pleasant, dry yeasty note to this whisky that makes it quite the “session dram”, since you’re not overwhelmed by sherry, oak, or peat accumulating on the palate. It’s quite a counterpoint to Morris’ flagship “Signature” release, and you might face a challenge trying to decide which one you prefer – there’s a distinct difference between the two. If you’re a fan of drier white wines like sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio, and certainly if you’re a fan of fino sherry, then the Morris Sherry Barrel will be right up your alley.
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Morris Sherry Barrel is available through several Australian retailers around the country, and also directly via Morris Whisky’s website. RRP is $145.
Cheers,
AD
PS. You can read our feature piece on Morris whisky and our thoughts on their Signature expression here.
PPS: For those that care about such things, Whisky & Wisdom did not receive a press release, or a sample bottle, or a request from a PR agent to promote Morris Sherry Barrel. We rarely do. As is often the case, W&W simply purchased a bottle as a punter, and felt compelled to tell the whisky’s story.
I thought it was just the Americans who used the word “Barrel” as the genetic term for an Oak whisky container. As far as I understand, the British (including the Scots), use the word “Cask” to refer to any Oak whisky container. The word Barrel has a specific definition, that being a 180-200L Oak cask used to age American Whiskey, including Bourbon, or a Beer Barrel, which is 117.5 Litres.
The Scots, as far as I know, would never use the term “Sherry Barrel” which tehy would exclusively reserve for Bourbon or other American Whiskey. They would instead use “Sherry Cask” or state the specific cask type, be it a Butt (500L) or Hogshead (250L).
Having said this, I was involved in a project a couple of years ago to produce genuine Kosher Spanish Sherry Butts for the Scotch Whisky Industry and the head of the bodega, a Spaniard, I was working along side with, insisted on calling his products Sherry barrels, even though the clients in Scotland all referred to them as casks or butts.
I’d suggest the majority of Australian distillers would use the term “cask” in their labelling and product nomenclature. Use of the term “barrel” is not uncommon, but it’s by no means a national convention.