Highland Park is a leading name in Scotch whisky circles, although it remains an enigmatic brand for some. Despite being one of Scotland’s oldest distilleries, dating back to 1798, its location on the Orkney Isles puts it north of some people’s radar. The brand has also leant heavily into Orkney’s viking heritage in recent years, and has themed its livery accordingly. While its entry-level expressions sit comfortably amongst their peers, the aspect of Highland Park that teases so many whisky enthusiasts is that its high-end and special releases can often be up there with the very best that single malt has to offer.
Of course, if you’ve been in the game for a while, none of this is a surprise. Indeed, it was over 30 years ago that the great whisky writer, Michael Jackson, declared Highland Park to be the “greatest all-rounder”. And he was right – a good Highland Park will display a little bit of everything: Malt, heather-honey sweetness, citrus, spice, floral notes, and a wisp of smoke.
Once upon a time if you wanted a good night out with whisky and food, you were obliged to hit up two separate venues. You’d head to a restaurant for a quality feed, then migrate to a specialist whisky bar for some memorable drams. Happily, there are venues around these days that can readily do both – and do both well. Mjolner is one such destination. There’s a Mjolner in both Sydney and Melbourne now, but for this little piece, we’ll focus on the Sydney venue.
Part of the Speakeasy Group (well known for its bars like Eau-de-Vie and Boilermaker House), Mjolner is on Cleveland Street in Surry Hills/Redfern – just a block from the sector made famous for all its Lebanese restaurants, and a short walk from Central Station. In keeping with many bar trends these days, there’s no street presence or signage, and access is via a small, unremarkable door. However, walk through the door and you descend down into a dark dungeon of drinks, drams, décor, and decadence.
Mjolner is a themed venue, and it’s Viking all the way. (For the uninitiated, Mjolner is the name of Thor’s hammer). A Nordic-inspired food menu, Norse mythology, and Viking furnishings and decorations ooze out of every nook and cranny.
Whilst the bar has an impressive array of staples, cocktails, and curios, it’s the whiskies that you come for. And there’s some genuine attractions that are worth crossing town for. (A Macallan 18yo 1979 Gran Reserva – one of the greatest Macallans from its glory years – being a good example, albeit at $500 for a dram!) Very shortly, the Speakeasy Group venues will each be launching new customised apps that make researching and ordering your whisky an incredibly immersive experience – W&W had a sneak peek at the Mjolner app, and they’ve pulled off the kind of functionality and features that we were all dreaming of five years ago.
Unsure about cutlery etiquette? Just choose your weapon. (Image courtesy of venue)
Adjourning to the dining tables, don’t come without your appetite – when they say Viking feast, the emphasis is on feast. You won’t leave hungry. As part of the theatre, you’ll be required to “choose your weapon” for your meal, selecting your knife from a leather roll of assorted blades. The entrées, mains and sides are all mouthwatering, tasty, and well-presented. Beast, fowl, seafood, or veg, there’s something for everyone, but it’s a menu that’s better suited to larger groups of four or more and sharing the dishes. The food, whilst delicious and plentiful, is admittedly not cheap.
The pork was a highlight.
There’s something for pescatarians.
The meats are succulent and mouthwatering. (Image courtesy of the venue)
The roasted marrow is worth crossing town for. (Image courtesy of the venue)
Given the Viking theme, it’s no surprise that the venue has partnered heavily with Highland Park, and there’s a good range of Orkney malts to choose from. Most impressively, the venue recently concocted its own bespoke bottling of Mjolner Highland Park. Taken from a mix of 1st-fill and refill sherry casks (both European and American oak), it resulted in 1,731 bottles of Mjolner-labelled 14yo at 56.5%. Presented to you in its own Viking longboat, it’s a Highland Park that has a lot more going for it than the bulk of the core-range expressions available at the moment: A good infusion of that classic, heather-honey peat; a good dose of sherry; some spicy and herbal malt; and all delivered at a worthy ABV.
Presented to you in its own Viking longboat, the Mjolner Highland Park is a genuinely good whisky.
For more on Highland Park and its current range of Viking-inspired whiskies, you can read Whisky & Wisdom’s feature piece, Highland Park – the Vikings are coming.
The bar at Mjolner is the work of Alex Dahlenburg (including the bespoke bottling), and she’s excelled herself with the concept, the stock, and the delivery. Little surprise that she was suitably recognised at the recent Australian Icons of Whisky 2020 awards, picking up Bartender of the Year – followed shortly afterwards with Bar Manager of the Year at the Australian Liquor Industry Awards. Never one to rest on her laurels, there’s another role for her in the pipeline, but we’ll save that news for the public unveiling.
In the meantime, for those wanting a whisky bar that’s on the fringe of the CBD rather than in the hustle-and-bustle of it all, Mjolner is worth a visit. May Odin reward your tastebuds accordingly.
You’ve probably been at a whisky event amongst a bunch of people and you were tasting a whisky from a particular distillery when someone near you remarked, “Ah, it’s not as good as it used to be…their whisky was so much better 20 years ago!” Or words to that effect. It’s a sentiment I’ve heard a lot lately. Mostly because I’m the old fart repeatedly saying it. We all look back on the rare and special whiskies we’ve tried in the past, and it’s hard not to wish that current incarnations were the same.
But I know I’m not alone – it’s an observation shared by many, and particularly amongst some of the pals I’ve been dramming with for 15-20 years. We’re often accused of wearing rose-coloured glasses or getting caught up in sepia-toned memories. That being said, we can be objective about this, and you should perhaps read our feature article, Is whisky better or worse today than it was 20 years ago?
To be clear, I’m not referring to all whisky per se … it would be folly and a blatant mistruth to suggest all whisky was generally better in the past. However, there are some distilleries that, on the whole, are releasing whiskies today that are a far cry from the bottlings they released in years gone by. I hesitate to suggest that their quality has gone downhill, since quality or flavour preference can be a subjective thing.
But, having said that, if you’ve been enjoying single malt whisky for over 20 years, there are a few benchmark drams that some of us hang our hats on. You may have heard of these drams in the past and wondered what all the fuss is about? Why are they so revered?
Anyone who’s been drinking whisky for a few years now will no doubt have noticed “change”. Brands have changed their packaging and labels. Distilleries have changed their core-range or introduced new expressions into their line-up. Prices have changed. Distillery Managers and Brand Ambassadors have changed. According to some, whisky itself has changed!Another key area that has changed (and will continually evolve and change) is whisky’s marketing. In particular, each whisky brand’s image can change. And few brands can match the change in persona that has overcome Highland Park.
Everyone has a bucket list, and I daresay most whisky drinkers would probably list visiting their favourite distillery for a distillery tour as a “must do” at some stage in their life. But if you’re really serious about your whiskies and you could actually get yourself to six distilleries before qualifying for your entitlement of the angels’ share, what are the Top Six to visit? In no particular order…
