If there’s one distillery that evokes some of the more dramatic images and sentiments in the world of Scotch whisky, it is surely Talisker. As a distillery and as a single malt, it cuts across the full spectrum of whisky’s nuances and features: Words often associated with Talisker include coastal, peat, remote, Highlands, sweet, iodine, Isle of Skye, wormtubs, smoky, brine, visitor centre, old, sea loch, Johnnie Walker, aged……it is all things Scotland, and has been since 1830. Fans of Talisker single malt have been thrilled to see its core-range and other portfolio offerings expand in recent times. From the widely available 10 year old, to the some of unique expressions in the Diageo Special Releases range, there’s always a splash of briny, peaty Talisker to enjoy at lots of different ages and price points. One of the more fascinating releases – and certainly one of the tastiest – is the new Talisker 45yo Glacial Edge.
Glacial Edge is the third and final release in the Talisker Xpedition Oak Series. At 45 years old, it is also the oldest Talisker single malt ever to be bottled. So – apart from the impressive age – what’s unique about this whisky? Like the two preceding releases in this series (bottled at 43 and 44 years respectively), the whisky spent time in casks that went on a unique journey and underwent some unusual treatment. In the case of the Talisker 45yo Glacial Edge, the story is this: Twelve heavily-charred ex-bourbon barrels were transported to the Marriott Basin in British Columbia, Canada, and left out in an ice field where they were subjected to the arctic winds at sub-zero temperatures for 96 hours. In such conditions, the charred inner surface of the casks apparently cracked, opening and exposing new fissures and layers in the oak – variations that had the potential to influence spirit in different ways than would a regular cask. The already-ancient whisky that had spent time in both American and European oak was then filled into these 12 casks for a finishing period. The whisky has been bottled at 49.8% ABV, with 2455 bottles released.
The marketing language accompanying this whisky offers up some interesting terms and phrases. Glacial voyage, biting Arctic winds, and the somewhat curious “ice-fractured casks”. Like the distillery itself, it’s all highly evocative, and there’s another aspect to the story with the distillery’s partnership with Parley – an organisation committed to ocean conservation. However, the true measure and success of any whisky hinges on its quality and how it actually tastes. So how does this Talisker stack up?
The answer is simple: The Talisker 45yo Glacial Age tastes…….incredible. I have been privileged over the years to taste a large range of well-aged whiskies between 30 and 60 years old, and the truth is that the spirit doesn’t always match the hype or the price tag. This, however, is a whisky that delivers the goods. It is an exceptional Talisker. Courtesy of the good folks at malts.com, I was able to sit down with a generous dram and spend some time getting to know it. Whisky & Wisdom’s tasting notes as follows:
Talisker 45yo Glacial Edge, 49.8% ABV
Nose: Rockpools by the beach, with seaweed in the sun. The tiniest hint of iodine, but it’s sweet iodine! Salty and briny. Hints of citrus. Extremely complex, very intriguing, and utterly appealing.
Palate: Deliciously rich and oily mouthfeel. That classic Talisker “iodiney dryness” is here in spades. Given the age, the peat is dialled down (certainly compared to the 10yo), but there’s instead a stunning interplay between the oak and malt. The alcohol is surprisingly soft, confirming superb oak integration and influence. Return sips start to bring out tobacco leaf notes and roasted chicory drink.
Finish: Hints of dark chocolate. The finish is long, and the soft, light peatiness lingers for an eternity on the tongue, almost turning ashy as it slowly dissipates.
Comments: The challenge with any single malt over 40 years old is to keep the oak in check and not have it overpower the spirit. Next is to ensure the palate doesn’t become too dry or tannic. This Talisker 45yo doesn’t just clear those two hurdles, but it sails over them with ease. The nose is exceptionally complex and appealing, offering up something new with each return sniff. The palate also takes you on a journey, starting off with the family of flavours that typically accompany geriatric peated whisky (very similar, in fact, to some of Diageo’s Special Releases editions and other releases of Brora and Port Ellen in recent years), but then broadening as dark chocolate, malt, and oak expand the horizon. Delicious whisky, and one that will delight and reward.
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Talisker 45yo Glacial Edge is out now and available in select leading retailers and whisky specialists. RRP is A$7,800. No, not cheap – but then rare, delicious, and exceptional 45 year old whisky never is.
Cheers,
AD
