Fans of Irish Whiskey should by now be no stranger to the name Teeling, and the new Teeling Single Malt is turning heads in the Irish whiskey industry, as is the new Silver Reserve 21yo. The Teeling name and family claims distilling heritage back to 1782 when Walter Teeling set up his distillery in Dublin. However, things get more interesting if you fast forward two centuries to 1987, when John Teeling established Cooley Distillery and instantly changed the landscape of the Irish whiskey industry at that time. The number of whiskey distilleries in Ireland had fallen from over 100 in 1886 to just two survivors by 1970. Cooley was not just a breath of fresh air, but an injection of life, independence, new thinking, and new styles of whiskey into the Irish industry. When Cooley eventually sold to Beam Inc. in 2011, the stage was set for John Teeling to start another chapter in his life, going on to form the Irish Whiskey Company with a group of investors, including his two sons, Jack & Stephen Teeling. Whilst that company is currently focussing on converting an old brewery in Dundalk into a distillery, brothers Jack & Stephen have formed their own company, Teeling Whiskey Company, and set about bringing out new whiskies for the public to enjoy.
Construction of the new Teeling Distillery was completed in June 2015, and the distillery had already welcomed its 10,000th visitor by the end of the year! However, whilst the Teeling spirit is but a few months old and a long way from being ready to bottle, the Teelings have a ready inventory of casks and stock from their Cooley days, and it is from this inventory that they are producing and bottling a range of small batch whiskies.
The latest Teeling Single Malt is a fascinating concoction with a vatting that comprises five different cask-types or maturation regimes. The casks used for the new release previously held Sherry, Port, Madeira, White Burgundy, and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s been quick to scoop up awards, having recently won “World’s Best Irish Single Malt” at the World Whisky Awards 2015; Gold at San Francisco 2015; and Silver “Outstanding” at the IWSC Awards 2015.
But whiskies that win awards and whiskies that appeal to drinkers are often two different beasts, so how does this whisky stack up? The good folks at Teeling recently supplied Whisky & Wisdom with a sample of this latest Single Malt release, as well as a sample of the Silver Reserve 21yo. Yours truly sat down recently with the samples for some critical analysis:
Teeling Single Malt (NAS, 46% ABV, Non-chillfiltered)
Whilst officially an NAS whiskey, the company declares that the oldest whisky in the vatting is 23 years old.
Nose: A true delight to nose. Sweet fruits dusted with icing sugar; orchard fruit; straw, hay, and malt aromas; sweet pastry and vanilla; custard creams; and very light spices. The contribution from the sherry and the madeira is just the perfect amount, and everything is balanced.
Palate: A fascinating and tasty palate. That classic Irish mineral/metallic note is just there in the background, but it’s completely overshadowed by the sweetness, maltiness, and oak that drives this whisky along. The sweet fruits and orchard fruits on the nose transfer and repeat on the palate, and the texture – at 46% and non-chillfiltered – is perfect.
Finish: In a wonderful contrast to the sweetness of the palate, the finish introduces a mild dryness that I suspect is due to the Port and Cabernet Sauvignon cask influence. But the fruitiness never dies away – in fact, tropical fruits (particularly melon and pineapple) leave the lasting impression.
Comments: This is easily one of the most fascinating and enjoyable Irish single malts I’ve ever tried. The flavours are unique and atypical, and the complexity of the dram leaves most whiskies for dead. One suspects the enduring sweetness and fruitiness is due to the white burgundy cask influence, and whilst this is an NAS and no doubt a vatting of several different vintages, the end result is a very well matured and delivered whiskey. A deserving winner of the accolades it has received.
Teeling Silver Reserve 21yo (46% ABV, Non-chillfiltered)
Distilled in 1991, this whiskey was initially matured in ex-bourbon casks before being transferred to Sauterne wine casks for finishing.
Nose: The initial nosing betrays the long years in bourbon wood, with leather, oak, and light bourbon-like aromas lifting out of the glass to start. Hints of tobacco leaf, dry spices (both cumin and coriander seeds), and very subtle notes of stone fruits (e.g. peaches) round out the experience.
Palate: The silky and juicy spirit displays a great balance between sweet malt and dry, oak-influenced, tobacco-like woodiness. It’s incredibly satisfying and exhibits pleasant and satisfying characteristics that one normally associates with much older whiskies, e.g. 30yo or even 40yo releases – and yet it remains lively, vibrant, light on the palate, and never weighed down. The oak is always present and in the foreground, but never dominates or steals the limelight.
Finish: Appropriately drying, the tobacco leaf notes remain ever-present…almost fooling me into thinking there was a faint peatiness to this.
Comments: Rich, complex, sophisticated, and well-matured. Definitely a dram for contemplation whilst sitting by the fire, and one that deserves time and attention. A rewarding experience.
Both these whiskies are currently available from good stockists around the country. The Single Malt release retails for around $80, surely making it one of the best bang-for-your buck whiskies on the market right now. The Silver Reserve 21yo retails for around $200.
Photographs above courtesy of the official Teeling website which is here.
For more reviews of Teeling’s whiskies, Whisky & Wisdom previously reviewed the Small Batch Rum Cask Finish and the Single Grain releases, which you can read here. You can also read our write up on the Teeling Revival 15yo here.
Cheers,
AD
PS: You might like our other articles on Teeling Whiskey….
Teeling Whiskey – Three limited edition gems
