The resurgence – indeed, resurrection – of the Irish whiskey industry continues to gather momentum, and one of the newer (and certainly more vocal and visible) players in the scene took another exciting step earlier this year when the Teeling Whiskey 24 yo won the industry’s most highly coveted gong. With focus again concentrating on the spirit coming out of the Emerald Isle, it’s a good time for fans of Irish whiskey as Teeling releases three new expressions into the Australian market.
The Teeling story is a good one. The fundamental headline is the establishment of the new Teeling Distillery back in 2015 – the first new distillery to be built in Dublin in over 125 years! The Teeling family – in this instance, brothers Jack and Stephen – established a new brand and have brought a number of wonderful Irish whiskies to market, all originally distilled at Cooley, the distillery that their father, John Teeling, helped establish back in 1987. This will likely continue to be the case until their own-produced spirit reaches maturity.
We’ve written a fair bit about Teeling in the past and you can read more about Teeling’s history and pedigree here. Or you could check out their official website here.
But the big news this month is the release of three new whiskies to the Australian market, each with a wonderful story to tell and one of them – the 17yo – has a terrific Australian connection. Let’s see (and taste) what’s on offer:
Teeling Whiskey 24 yo
This is one highly decorated whiskey, having already won a string of awards and medals in numerous spirits competitions when it subsequently brought home the big one: World’s Best Single Malt at the 2019 World Whiskies Awards last March. (The same award Australia’s Sullivans Cove won back in 2014).
The spirit itself was distilled in 1991 and spent 21 years in ex-bourbon casks before being transferred to ex-Sauterne casks for a further three years. Bottled at 46% ABV back in 2016, it’s taken a while to come to Australia. However, as this is now sold out in most markets around the world, Aussies are now in prime position to grab a piece of Irish distilling history. RRP is $600 through Dan Murphys.
Whisky & Wisdom’s thoughts as follows:
Nose: Nosed side-by-side with the 17yo discussed below, the 24yo asserts itself as the more serious, no-nonsense older brother! There are hints of barley malt; the sweetness of honey; and the vanilla, leather, and soft fruits from the 21 years in bourbon are easily identifiable.
Palate: Well, let’s not beat around the bush here: This is delicious. The palate explodes with flavour and depth that was not immediately obvious from the nose. There are hints of chewy caramel, bonbon sweets, vanilla, and toffee. The malted barley provides a firm foundation, but the casks and years of maturation have expanded this and taken it in seriously impressive directions. The alcohol balance is perfect, and the decision to bottle at 46% ABV is to be applauded – the mouthfeel is slick, oily, chewy, textural, but never hot or aggressive.
Finish: One of those luxurious finishes that lingers for ages before slowly receding, leaving the drinker immensely satisfied.
Comments: The sweetness from the three years in ex-Sauternes casks has shaped and added to this whiskey, rather than dominated or defined the spirit. In other words, the influence is subtle and pleasingly effective, rather than bombastic or overwhelming. Truly a delight to nose and sip, this is a whisky that deserves long and careful contemplation. Not hard to see why this impressed so many judges.
Teeling Whiskey 17 yo Jim Barry Shiraz Cask
The spirit in this release was finished in Shiraz casks sourced from the Clare Valley, South Australia. More specifically, the Shiraz casks previously held the 2016 release of Jim Barry’s super premium “The Armagh” – named after the Clare Valley settlement founded by the original Irish settlers in 1848 on account of the surrounding green hills resembling that of their homeland. A very limited release with just 2,000 bottles, RRP is $200, again through Dan Murphys.
Whisky & Wisdom’s thoughts as follows:
Nose: The initial nose – that very first whiff to hit your nostrils – screams sweet fruit louder than any whiskey I can recall in the last 20 years. Think of most sweet, tropical fruits and you’ll find them here: Mango, peaches, and stewed apricots feature prominently, but so too do forest fruits like raspberries. Red currants are also evident – the Shiraz cask at play, perhaps? An extraordinarily fragrant and appealing nose. Will the palate match this?…..
Palate: Happily, the palate is a direct continuation of what the nose promised. It’s sweet and fruity, but with just enough dryness and tannins from the oak to provide the requisite balance and prevent it from becoming cloying. A little reminiscent of an old but extremely good Armagnac.
Finish: Medium in length, it stays sweet and teases you into wanting to take further sips.
Comments: This whiskey is like a basket of fruit, and those with a sweet tooth or who prefer sweeter whiskies should pounce on this. Purists may suggest the fruit and Shiraz cask have overpowered the cereal malt, but then if the whole point of using a Shiraz cask is to expand the flavour profile and take the spirit in new directions, then this has worked a treat. Fans of Australian whisky who like wood-driven malts should enjoy this.
Teeling Whiskey Stout Cask
There have beenseveral ale-cask matured or ale-cask finished whiskies released over the years, but this one’s story is different to most. Galway Bay Brewery has been producing an Imperial Stout for several years now that goes by the name of 200 Fathoms. In a celebrated collaboration with Teeling Whiskey, the stout is actually barrel-aged in casks that previously held Teeling’s Small Batch whiskies.
In a twist that sees these casks come full circle, the Stout Cask release is Teeling whiskey that has been finished in the same casks that previously held the Galway Bay stout (which previously held Teeling whiskey!) The whiskey is again bottled at 46% and is a limited release of 12,000 bottles. You’ll find this at Dan Murphys at a very respectable $80.
Whisky & Wisdom’s thoughts as follows:
Nose: No surprises here when you know the provenance of the casks, but there’s definitely a hopped and roasted malt note evident up front. Compared with the other two whiskies tasted in this line up which exude more fruit and sweetness, the Stout Cask most obviously betrays its barley heritage and that slightly bitter edge that can typify many Irish whiskies .
Palate: As someone who doesn’t mind a stout, it’s hard not to like this whiskey…the dark roasted maltiness has survived the distillation process and certainly transfers to the palate. Enjoyable stuff and, importantly, forges some new and enjoyable flavours on the whiskey spectrum.
Finish: The back palate and the finish of this whiskey truly betray the influence of the stout cask! If you’ve ever had one of those extremely high-alcohol beers where the beer takes on a spirity nature, this is almost the equivalent, with the whiskey taking on a beery character. More critically, the marriage works, and is not just a token or disparate assembly.
Comments: This is a fun whiskey! Young, vibrant, extremely affordable, it reveals a little about Irish whiskey but genuinely brings the stout along for the ride.
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With thanks to Nicola Archer Communications for the opportunity to taste these three releases and form our thoughts. Fans of Irish whiskey need to check these releases out – they’re great expressions of Irish spirit.
Cheers,
AD
