Following the success of That Boutique-y Whisky Company’s first Australia Series releases back in 2021, the independent bottler is back with their second run focussing on whiskies from Australia, appropriately titled Return to Oz.
Whisky & Wisdom covered Boutique-y’s original Australia Series back in April 2021, and you can read our original piece here, which gives much of the relevant background and philosophy behind it all. The Return to Oz series shares the same approach and outlook, albeit with some new faces and names in the line-up.
That Boutique-y Whisky Company is a relatively new-ish independent bottler, having been established in 2012. However, with its bold and striking artwork adorning their labels, the brand has a visibility that is hard to miss on the shelves! The Return to Oz Series features nine whiskies from nine different distilleries located around the country. Eight are single malts, with the ninth being a stunning rye. The list is as follows
The Gospel 3yo (Victoria) (A rye whiskey)
Launceston 5yo (Tasmania)
Limeburners 5yo (Western Australia)
Tria Prima 2yo (South Australia)
Corowa 4yo (New South Wales)
Overeem 5yo (Tasmania)
Chief’s Son 5yo (Victoria)
Fleurieu 3yo (South Australia)
Riverbourne 2yo (New South Wales)
The average age across the Return to Oz range is a wee bit older than the original series, with a few more five year old age statements in the mix. (The first series was comprised mostly of two and three year old releases). In Australia, whisky is legally “whisky” after two years’ maturation, and so whilst all the releases are officially whisky in this corner of the southern hemisphere, the labelling laws for whisky in the United Kingdom dictate that the two year old releases can’t be labelled as whisky. Accordingly, you’ll note some playful adjustments to the artwork on the labels for the Riverbourne and Tria Prima bottlings.
As always, the label artwork for That Boutique-y Whisky Company’s bottles are a talking point, and the Return to Oz range is no exception. Built around the theme of dangerous animals, each label features a deadly animal that can be found around the area where each distillery is located. Accordingly, look out for things like funnel web spiders, a blue-ringed octopus, saltwater crocodiles, box jellyfish, great white sharks, and the like.
Whisky & Wisdom was privileged to participate in a virtual tasting put on this week by That Boutique-y Whisky Company, and the evening was hosted and presented by Boutique-y’s Global Brand Ambassador, Dave Worthington from the UK, with input also from Sam Simmons (Head of Whisky, Atom Brands) and Simon McGoram, Regional Sales Manager for Atom Brands, Asia Pacific.
All nine whiskies were sampled (in the order of listing above), and each made an impact in its own way. Whisky & Wisdom’s personal thoughts on each were as follows: (The prices provided are RRP in Australian Dollars and British Pounds respectively. Note that these are for 500ml bottles)
The Gospel Rye (3 years old, Batch 1, 58.6% ABV, $179/£74)
The Gospel is already highly regarded in Australia, with many advocates proposing it’s the best rye in the land. This bottling puts up little argument to that assertion: It’s unbelievably good. The mashbill is 51% unmalted rye and 49% malted barley. The resulting whiskey displays some commonalities with the ryes you might be familiar with out of Kentucky, USA, but this displays wonderful notes of oak and spice on the nose, followed by incredible fruits on the palate. While the whisky started its maturation journey in virgin American oak, it was finished for a period in an Australian ex-red wine cask, which would certainly account for the rich fruit and sweetness it displays on the palate.
Launceston (5 years old, Batch 1, 62.6% ABV, American oak ex-bourbon barrel, $319/£149)
At over 62% ABV, this whisky has some prickle on the nose, and most of the participants in our tasting session agreed it benefited from a wee splash of water. This brought out sweet floral and bakery notes, particularly custard creams and Apricot Danish. There was a wonderful maltiness on the palate, together with raspberry jam. If you had to reach for a lazy-but-easy-to-pigeonhole descriptor for this whisky, it was very reminiscent of a tasty, fruity Speysider. (In other words, if you enjoy the likes of Royal Brackla, Glenlossie, or Glen Elgin, this should be on your shopping list!)
Limeburners (5 years old, Batch 1, 51.5% ABV, ex-Apera cask, $299/£144)
One of the older distilleries in Australia now, Limeburners consistently produces great whiskies these days, and it was no surprise to see it make it on to this list of The Best Australian Whiskies. And, in keeping with that theme, let us not mince words: This whisky is incredible. It offers sensational tropical fruits on the nose (pineapple crush, mangos), followed by extraordinary flavours of sweet fruits on the palate in the form of mangos, apricot nectar, peach nectar, and some soft sherry notes. An amazing malt that could work as either an aperitif or a dessert dram. Spoiler alert: This was our favourite in the line-up.
Tria Prima (2 years old, Batch 1, 51.2% ABV, 1st fill ex-Tawny cask, $295/£139)
By way of contrast, this is one of the younger distilleries on the Australian scene, and this particular expression presents a flavour profile that is very representative and typical of what is now being regarded by many as the “classic” Australian style (i.e. port cask maturation). The port wine notes come through on the nose and particularly on the palate. However, as often comes hand-in-hand with this style, it’s a little tannic, and the mouthfeel is on the dry side. It’s well matured and developed for its youthful two years, and – with the tannins already building – it’s evident this wouldn’t have wanted to be in the cask for any longer.
Corowa (4 years old, Batch 1, 48.5% ABV, ex-Tawny cask, $239/£109)
It’s hard to think of another whisky where chocolate features so prominently (and so deliciously) on the nose and palate. The initial nosing offers up milk chocolate, which expands out to jam and cream on scones. The palate throws up more chocolate (choc-malt), bordering on coffee chocolate. Some fruit comes through on the finish, with a touch of bitterness for contrast, e.g. marmalade. Tasty stuff.
Overeem (5 years old, Batch 3, 50% ABV, ex-Apera cask, $329/£159)
Overeem continues to impress across many fronts, and has a huge fan base. Seems Boutique-y likes it, too, given this is now the third batch they’ve released! This is, again, perhaps a more traditional Australian whisky in style and flavour. There’s lime-key pie on the nose, followed by malt, fruit, and citrus on the palate. Pleasant drinking and classic apera maturation.
Chief’s Son (5 years old, Batch 1, 52.1%, ex-Apera cask, $294/£139)
Chief’s Son can be a little inconsistent from time to time, but when they get it right, their whisky is genuinely amongst the best in the land. The scale of production is tiny, with an annual capacity of just 5,000L. This release, with a few years under its belt, is a great whisky that’s clean on the nose (hints of vanilla and caramel), but then displays incredible complexity on the palate. There’s an intriguing and teasing smokiness on the palate that will have you wondering if some peated malt found its way into the mash. The palate also offers up licorice and mint, and a savouriness reminiscent of black pudding. There’s a lot going on, and this is a complex, tasty malt that will keep your tastebuds entertained for some time.
Fleurieu (3 years old, Batch 2, 65% ABV, peated malt, $309/£144)
Fleurieu must one be one of the most consistent distilleries in the land, and one of the things most consistent about it is that near everyone sings its praises. (Including yours truly – it made the list of best Australian whiskies). This particular expression features peated malt (sourced from Scotland), and it’s a soft, smouldering dram that invokes memories of a gentle Caol Ila or similar. The flavours are strong, rich, and full. Boutique-y opted to bottle this at a whopping 65% ABV, which seems an odd choice until you taste it. It works.
Riverbourne (2 years old, Batch 2, 51% ABV, peated malt, $224/£99)
The Riverbourne cask that featured in the original TBWC Australia Series was an outlier in Riverbourne’s profile, and – it must be said – it wasn’t a great or representative example of this distillery’s whiskies. The Return to Oz release is a bit more in keeping with the distillery’s house style, and it’s a fine whisky. The mash features a mix of Scottish peated malt and Australian malt, and the whisky’s been matured in a 100L cask that was a mix of French Oak and American oak staves. Not surprisingly, it’s a complex dram with a lot on offer. Do not dismiss it on the basis of its relatively youthful age – the peat here shines.
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In any diverse line up such as this, taste is subjective and everyone will have their own individual favourites and preferences in this range. For me, the Limeburners was my favourite, with the Fleurieu just a nudge behind, and the Chief’s Son just a nudge behind that. That said, the rye from The Gospel might have some seriously questioning their malt allegiances.
Just like the Australia Series before it, the Return to Oz range from That Boutique-y Whisky Company gives international drinkers a fantastic insight into Australian whisky, and the range is diverse enough to capture a reasonable slice of the wide spectrum that makes up Aussie malts. Notwithstanding anything else, one thing here is certain: These are nine great whiskies.
Cheers,
AD
Want to read more about aspects of the Australian whisky industry? Here’s just a few of Whisky & Wisdom’s previous articles….
Which is the best Australian whisky?
Australian whisky – It’s got an image problem
That Boutique-y Whisky Company – Australia Series
Bakery Hill – the view from the top
Iniquity whisky and Tin Shed Distillers
