{Update: The article below was first written in 2014 and has been superseded/replaced with a more up-to-date article. You should read the updated article here.}
Need a whisky for Christmas? Once upon a time, whisky was whisky, and Santa wasn’t too discerning when it came to what special dram you left out for him on Christmas Eve. In decades gone by, there was also less distinction – by both marketers and consumers – about the significance of sherried versus non-sherried whisky. Of course, with the huge decline in sherry consumption and the corresponding rise in the cost of sherried single malts, the distinction and noise around sherried whisky is now more stark and louder than ever. (And that’s before we even mention words like European oak or sulphur candles!)
When I first started hosting whisky tasting events in 2001, I did a fair bit of freelance work for Macallan. This was back when the core range was simply the 12yo, 15yo, 18yo, and 25yo – all of them made with Golden Promise barley, and all matured exclusively in sherry casks. I used to describe the flavour of these sherried whiskies as being like “Christmas pudding in a glass”. The really great sherried whiskies showcased all of the dried fruits you’d find in Christmas pudding (e.g. raisins, sultanas, dates, cherries, apricots, etc); as well as the butterscotch and toffee notes you’d associate with the brandy butter or Christmas sauce. Some of them also exhibited a bit of the spice that we commonly associate with European oak, and occasionally there was also the pleasant bitterness of cloves and Christmas mince pies, or the sweetness of cinnamon.
As such, for me, if I’m going to drink a single malt at Christmas time, it’s got to be a sherried whisky. And, certainly, when it comes time on the 24th to put out a dram for Santa, it’s been a Glenfarclas for jolly Saint Nick every year since my kids arrived on the scene.
With this in mind then, let’s take a quick snapshot of four whiskies that fit the bill as a great Christmas whisky:
Of course, these aren’t the most heavily sherried whiskies around, nor are they necessarily the finest exponents from their respective houses. But it wouldn’t be very helpful for you, dear reader, if I’d nominated a rare and expensive 1968 Family Casks offering from Glenfarclas, or a Macallan Gran Reserva 1982. And there is a multitude of single cask bottlings from any number of distilleries and/or independent bottlers that would hit the mark. Rather, I’ve deliberately just aimed for the more affordable and widely available expressions from the four distilleries selected: Glenfarclas, Glendronach, Macallan, and Aberlour. These four expressions typify that classic, oloroso sherry maturation that delivers the Christmas goods. And you’ll find them at most well-stocked liquor outlets.
- The Glenfarclas 15yo is perhaps the best and most widely available from the Glenfarclas core-range that won’t break the bank. Bottled at a higher ABV of 46%, it carries more flavour and depth than, say, its 10yo or 12yo siblings. If your palate or wallet is feeling more adventurous, you could upgrade to the Glenfarclas 105, which is a younger whisky, but bottled at a higher ABV of around 60%. The official Glenfarclas website is here.
- The last few years have seen Glendronach release a prolific number of sherried bottlings, chiefly via their single cask expressions. With gaps in production from previous decades, plus a rapidly growing fan club, the core range has had to adapt in recent times – leading to the fabulous 15yo Revival (pictured above) being discontinued. Fear not – the 12yo Original fits the bill nicely. If you’re wanting to splash out (’tis the season, after all), the 21yo Parliament expression is one of the finest Christmas whiskies around. The official Glendronach website is here.
- Aberlour a’Bunadh has been one of the mainstays and benchmarks of heavily sherried whiskies since it was first launched in the late 1990’s. With an ABV typically around 59%, it’s a high-octane affair that works for many palates, but may not appeal to all – well, at least not without a splash of water. This whisky is released in batches, but fear not – there’s not an awful lot of variance between sequential batches, and while it’s true that one batch may differ slightly from its predecessor, the overall general style remains the same. The official Aberlour website is here.
- Depending on which market you’re in, the expressions and range available from Macallan will vary. Some markets had the age statement expressions replaced with the 1824 Series, but even that range is now being discontinued. For the purposes of a Christmas whisky, we need a sherry-matured expression, so give the Fine Oak range a miss. If you can’t source the Sherry Oak 12yo pictured above, then go for the new Double Cask 12yo. The Double Cask features both European and American oak casks, but it’s all 100% ex-sherry. (This is the same “recipe” for the Sienna expression in the 1824 Series). The official Macallan website is here. And if you’re particularly interested in The Macallan and its recent history (and public perception) you can read Whisky and Wisdom’s feature article on Macallan here.
So, when it comes time for your Christmas pudding this year, consider whether you’d like it served hot on a plate, or whether you’d prefer to take it in liquid, spiritual form.
Slainte, and merry Christmas.
AD
