When Irish eyes are Teeling

Looking for the origin story about Teeling Whiskey?  Below is the piece we wrote at the start of 2015, which still holds up…

Whilst the Scotch whisky industry continues to bubble along and keep everyone moderately happy as long as we’ve all got a filled Glencairn in our hand, the real gossip and excitement in the whisk(e)y community right now seems to be with what’s happening in other countries.

The recent media storm over Jim Murray’s latest edition of his Whisky Bible got everyone talking about Japanese whisky, and similar waves went around the globe when Australia’s Sullivan’s Cove was awarded best whisky in the world by Whisky Magazine last year.  And whisky brands like Kavalan (Taiwan), Mackmyra (Sweden), and Paul John or Amrut (India) continue to make the transition from being a modest curiosity to players with major followings, reach and – more critically – quality product.

And so, with all sectors of the whisky industry in growth and development, it’s no surprise that Irish whiskey is also making waves and changing the landscape.  Consider the following recent events:

• Irish whiskey has been identified as the fastest growing distilled spirit category in the world. That means its growth is outpacing bourbon, vodka, tequila, Scotch, brandy, and so on.
• Cooley Distillery, Ireland’s only independent distillery (at the time) was sold to Beam Inc. in 2011.
• Diageo sold Bushmills Distillery to tequila giant Casa Cuervo in 2014.
• William Grant & Sons purchased the Tullamore Dew brand in 2010, and last year completed the construction of a massive new distillery at Tullamore
• Former Bruichladdich leader, Mark Reynier, recently announced his next venture would be a new Irish whiskey distillery in Waterford.
• In 2013, there were just four operating whiskey distilleries in Ireland. The Irish Spirits Association expects this number to grow to 15 in the next few years.

While the decline of the Irish whiskey industry in the 20^th century and the reasons for it are well documented, its recent growth and renaissance is truly something worth celebrating.  And all the more so, when both independence and tradition team up and jump out of the page.  And that, ladies and gents, is where Teeling Whiskey fits in.

The Teeling name and family claims distilling heritage back to 1782 when Walter Teeling set up his distillery in Dublin.  However, things get more interesting if you fast forward two centuries to 1987, when John Teeling established Cooley Distillery and instantly changed the landscape.  The number of whiskey distilleries in Ireland had fallen from over 100 in 1886 to just two survivors by 1970.  Cooley was not just a breath of fresh air, but an injection of life, independence, new thinking, and new styles of whiskey into the Irish industry.  When Cooley eventually sold to Beam Inc. in 2011, the stage was set for John Teeling to start another chapter in his life, going on to form the Irish Whiskey Company with a group of investors, including his two sons, Jack & Stephen Teeling.  Whilst that company is currently focussing on converting an old brewery in Dundalk into a distillery, brothers Jack & Stephen have formed their own company, Teeling Whiskey Company, and set about bringing out new whiskies for the public to enjoy.

The new Teeling Whiskey Distillery itself is in Dublin, and construction is currently underway, with new spirit expected to start flowing in just a few weeks.  (If you visit their website, you can see progress photos of the distillery’s construction).  It’s the first new distillery to be built in Dublin in 125 years, and it will mark 39 years since the last stills in Dublin went silent.  However, being former Cooley staff themselves, they have a ready inventory of casks and stock, allowing them to produce and bottle a range of small-batch whiskies under the Teeling label until their new whisky has matured.

Now all of this would be fairly useless information if the whiskey wasn’t any good, so how does the spirit stack up?  The local distributor in Australia was kind enough to recently forward two samples for review (nicely wrapped up in a cool flat cap), and these went under the microscope this week:

Teeling Whiskey “Small Batch” Rum Cask Finish

The Teeling Small Batch is the flagship whiskey and is a blend in the traditional sense – a blend of malt and grain whiskies.  In this instance, the malt is a minimum of seven years old, and the grain is four years old.  The whiskies are vatted together and then married for six months (finished) in Flor De Cana rum barrels.  This spirit is bottled at 46% and is non-chillfiltered.   So, let’s put it to the test:

Nose:  The rum casks must have been fresh, because the first nosing is an instant hint of rum.  You need to dig a little deeper to find the more whiskey-related aromas, but they’re there and waiting, and they’re delicious once you find them: Kiwi fruit, tea buns with icing, coffee crystals and sweet fruits all flit around the nose and keep you entertained.

Palate: The deliciously rich and oily spirit hits your tongue and almost glides off, such is the syrupy oiliness of the whiskey.  There are sweet undertones, and the malt contributes nicely to the mix.  There are nice bakery characteristics on the palate, with savoury-like notes such as fresh sourdough , and sweet notes such as fruit flan or even croissants.

Finish: The rum casks are again evident, leaving a bitter-sweet, dark chocolate footprint that leaves you nicely satisfied.

Comments: As a broad, sweeping statement, Irish whiskey has a definite style; a character that sets it apart from other whiskies.  There is an identifying marker that gives most Irish whiskies away when they’re served blind in a line-up with other national whiskies (e.g. Scotch & Japanese whiskies) and the Teeling Small Batch certainly has that marker.  And so it should…because this IS Irish whiskey, and it’s what the Teelings set out to achieve.  There is just enough sweetness in this dram to hold up the balance, and the oiliness in the texture is a mouthwatering delight.

Teeling Whiskey Single Grain

This single grain whiskey (made from maize) was fully matured for just shy of six years in American oak Californian Cabernet Sauvignon wine barrels.  It is non-chillfiltered and bottled at 46%.  The result evidently impressed, as it was awarded the World’s Best Grain title at the World Whiskies Awards in 2014.  On this basis alone, it sounds like a stunning and appealing whiskey, so let’s put it through its paces:

Nose: The nose is unmistakably “grain”, with all the typical traits of a good corn whiskey.   There are wafts of vanilla essence and highlighter pens, all underpinned by a sweet creaminess.  With time in the glass, hints of soft fruits (e.g. peaches) emerge.

Palate:  The mouthfeel is oily and the texture is thick and full.  The flavours are very stony and mineral-like, not too far away from what Glenmorangie’s Artein bottling offered the palate.  To my palate, it’s not particularly sweet and the ex-wine barrels have left a dry, tannic footprint.

Finish: It’s a dry finish rather than a sweet one, but your mouth is left salivating and wanting to go back for another sip.

Comments: The majority of grain whiskies put on the market tend to be much, much older than this, and you’d do this whiskey a disservice if you went in expecting the likes of a 30yo Port Dundas or a Cambus 35yo.  It’s very “Irish” in nature, and if you prefer a lighter dram without the robustness or intensity of a single malt Scotch, then this bottling should appeal.

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So all in all, is this a new mark on the radar?  Does it add to the Irish whiskey landscape?  The answer is an uncontested YES.  Too many people taste Irish whiskey and make the mistake of instantly comparing it to or ranking it against Scotch.  And that completely misses the point.   Irish whiskey is Irish whiskey, and it’s a style and category that, once upon a time, outsold Scotch whisky significantly.   I’m thrilled that these early Teeling releases go straight to the heart of the Irish whiskey style and wear their colours on their sleeve.

As someone who seriously loved what Cooley brought to the table and did for the Irish whiskey industry, (and also my tastebuds!) I’m delighted that the Teelings have elected not to rest on their laurels.  I can’t wait for their new Dublin distillery to come onstream and fans of Irish whiskey around the world can keep the faith!

Cheers,
AD

PS: You might like our other articles on Teeling Whiskey….

Teeling Blackpitts

Teeling “The Revival” 15yo

Teeling Single Malt and Silver Reserve 21yo

Teeling Whiskey – Three limited edition gems

PPS: You might also like our piece, “The challenges of starting a new whisky brand“