The whisky lover’s skiing guide to Whistler (Aussie version)

Like whisky?  Like skiing or snowboarding?  Travelling to Whistler anytime soon?   Here’s your helpful and comprehensive Whistler travel guide for combining whisky and Whistler, as well as a whisky guide book for skiers heading through Vancouver…

(This version of the article is adapted specifically for Australian readers.  If you’re from elsewhere around the planet, read the international version here).

If you’re a keen Australian skier or snowboarder, it won’t be too long until the constraints and limitations of the Australian snow fields catch up with you and the lure of the overseas skiing resorts beckons. Some head to New Zealand; an increasing number are heading to Japan, but it seems the vast majority of Aussie skiers head to Whistler, Canada.  Indeed, so many Aussies work the ski resort over the winter, the place is affectionately known as Whistralia.

At the same time, any whisky lover who heads overseas always has the same questions: Where are the best whisky bars? Is there a distillery I can visit? What are the best local whiskies?

So, with all that to set the scene, this article is specifically aimed at that small niche of people who (i) love skiing; (ii) love whisky, and (iii) are heading to Whistler!

While you’re in Vancouver

Vancouver, in British Columbia, Canada, is your gateway to Whistler. Travellers invariably fly into Vancouver and then embark on the journey up to the snowfields.   Some land and travel up on the same day; others spend a day or two in Vancouver recovering from their flight and acclimatising to the time zone. (Vancouver is 19 hours behind Sydney/Melbourne, and 16 hours behind Perth). Landing on the back of a 14 hour direct flight (or longer if you transit through LA) can knock you around, so our recommendation is to take a day or two in Vancouver to enjoy the city and re-charge yourself. So what are the whisky attractions whilst you’re in town?

Fets Whisky Kitchen

One of the first things to know and appreciate in British Columbia is that all alcohol is controlled by a government monopoly. The government decides which brands & expressions can be imported, and then pubs, bars, hotels, restaurants, liquor outlets, etc, have to stock their shelves from the approved list. As such, the range might seem a bit limited to some travellers. Not all distilleries are represented, nor will you see many of the independents. So, from what is available, you need to know which venues carry the larger ranges.   There are whisky bars and there are whisky bars. Fets Whisky Kitchen is a whisky bar 😊.

Fets is both an incredible whisky destination, yet also a sensational dining venue with incredible food: Smoked ribs; burgers; salads; seafood; steaks; southern-style chicken…it’s all brilliant comfort food served in generous portions. The desserts are also extraordinary. You can also have paired options, with the menu nominating specific whiskies that complement each food dish.

As for the whiskies – the range is exceptional and the menu takes some time to read. New additions are inserted at the front, and you’ll find a HUGE range of single malt Scotches, some Japanese, bourbons, ryes, Canadian, and other world whiskies. Fets is also an official Partner Bar of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society and – ordinarily – the menu features a massive selection of SMWS whiskies. (Unfortunately, this is currently “on hold” owing to a licencing dispute between the venue and the government, resulting in a very public seizing of the SMWS bottles. This is of great concern to whisky drinkers everywhere, so read here to learn more, and to support their worthy cause, check out the site (still under development at time of writing) www.freethewhisky.com )

Fets Whisky Kitchen is a short, five minute taxi ride from the centre of the CBD, located at 1230 Commercial Drive, Vancouver.

Liberty Distillery

A quick Google search suggests there are 10 craft distilleries in the greater Vancouver area, but there’s only one whisk(e)y distillery where you can readily tour, explore, and taste on the premises.

Located on Granville Island in the heart of the city, the Liberty Distillery has been producing a range of spirits since 2010.   W&W has written a full feature piece on Liberty previously, which you can read here. However, at the time of writing that article, the fully matured and aged whiskey had not yet reached maturity. That’s now changed, and their Trust Whiskey – a three year old, triple distilled whiskey made from 100% unmalted barley – is now available.

They’ve also added to the range with a rye whiskey, and also their new variant called “Southern” which is essentially a bourbon. The current batch of Southern is distilled with a mashbill of 75% corn and 25% rye. (The mashbill of the original batch was 93% and 7% corn and rye respectively, so they’re tweaking each production run in true craft style).  Whisky & Wisdom re-visited Liberty very recently and went through the current line up of whiskies.  Whilst lighter in style and character to, say, heavier malts, their spirits will appeal to those who like fragrant, delicate, subtle whiskies.

The distillery offers incredibly detailed and informative tours on Saturdays & Sundays at 11.30am and 1.30pm. There are very few distilleries in the world where you can get as close to the action as this and be walked through the whole process in such a cosy and personable fashion. The bar is also a fantastic setting to try tasting flights of the distillery’s gins, vodkas, flavoured spirits, and whiskies.

Transport up to Whistler

If you prefer to hire your own wheels, it’s about a two to two-and-a-half hour drive from Vancouver up to Whistler, depending on the weather and how often you stop to admire the views out to the west.  There are plenty of rental options at the airport from a large range of operators that extend well beyond the usual Budget/Avis desks. Winter tyres are a must, which cost extra from the rental companies, so make sure you specify this up front or you’ll be in trouble.

Hiring a car obviously gives you the convenience of travelling under your own steam, and there’s PLENTY of free parking close to the uplift stations at the resort, so there’s no worries on that front. Just remember that, despite being a Commonwealth country, driving in Canada is the same as the USA, i.e. they drive on the right-hand side.

Alternatively, if hiring a car isn’t for you, there are ample bus and shuttle options that operate between Vancouver and Whistler. If you want to skip time in Vancouver and simply get up to the snow straight from the airport, then your best option is the excellent Skylynx service that runs up to eight services each way daily directly between Vancouver Airport and Whistler Village. Once you’re up in the resort, there are plenty of free shuttles and rides that service the entire commercial and residential areas, so you won’t have to do much walking.

If you are driving up to Whistler in your own car and you’re staying in self-catered / self-contained accommodation, allow yourself time to stop off at the very impressive Walmart in Dentville, just north of Squamish. This is an excellent spot to pick up foodstuffs and other necessaries at prices significantly cheaper than the supermarkets up in Whistler. The clothing department here is also excellent and – despite your preconceived notions about Walmart – it’s actually a great place to pick up good quality thermals and any other cold-weather stuff you might have overlooked. You’ll be surprised how much stuff you walk out the door with.

Mobile phones

If you want to avoid the exorbitant international roaming charges from your telco, consider getting a once-off, pre-paid SIM when you arrive and simply insert it into your phone in lieu of your home SIM. Here’s the trick: Not every phone company/carrier in Vancouver has coverage up in Whistler, particularly the cheaper ones. Accordingly, make sure your carrier has good coverage and service up in the snowfields. Our recommendation is to go with Bell. They’re a little more expensive, but their 4G coverage throughout the Whistler/Blackcomb resort is brilliant. $50 buys you 2GB of data and unlimited texts/phone calls, or $65 gets you 4GB – more than enough for those staying around for just a week or two, noting also that there’s free WiFi in many of the food/coffee venues if you need it. (Just don’t drink the stuff at Starbucks).

Bell has numerous shopfronts and outlets scattered across the Vancouver CBD and outer suburbs, so simply head in with your phone and explain what you need. You’ll have an operating phone, local number, and full internet access within 10 minutes!

When you get to Whistler Blackcomb

On the snow

For the uninitiated, Whistler Blackcomb is actually two mountains. Whistler is the southern mountain; Blackcomb is the northern one. The two peaks are linked at the top via the Peak-to-Peak Gondola (a very quick and convenient way to change mountains and maximise your terrain). You can also “change sides” by skiing from Blackcomb to the bottom of Whistler; or you can transfer from the bottom of Whistler to Blackcomb via the Excaliber Gondola. In short – it’s all really just one BIG place and everything is well linked. Providing the snow has fallen and the runs are open, you can get everywhere on your skis without needing to transfer to a bus, shuttle, or tube.

If you’re used to the short, patchy runs represented by the likes of Perisher, Thredbo, and Falls Creek, the sheer size, scale, and length of Whistler Blackcomb may initially seem daunting and overwhelming. Even the shortest runs at Whistler Blackcomb are longer than the longest runs in Australia!  Our Whistler Travel Guide wouldn’t be complete without giving you a few tips and pointers…

Skiing in December can occasionally carry risk if the season is late – not all the lifts and runs around the resort may open until there’s a sufficient base, so visiting in January or February can be a safer bet.

Generally speaking, the majority of Blackcomb features Blue runs (intermediate level), and the more advanced and experienced skiers often spend more of their day on Blackcomb.   Whistler offers some of the more enjoyable Green runs (Beginner level), although advanced skiers will find plenty of enjoyment in the Harmony, Symphony, and Peak zones of Whistler when they’re available. For those who prefer Black runs, you won’t be disappointed.

Not surprisingly, the temperatures and conditions at Whistler are colder and more brutal than the Australian ski fields. Gloves and jackets that served you well in Australia may struggle in Whistler if they don’t have sufficient waterproofing and insulation. Given its proximity to the coastline, the snow at Whistler is a wet snow, and your clothes and gloves need to be suitably rated. Gore-Tex is worth the investment, and anything you buy specifically for your trip should have a waterproofing rating of at least 15,000mm, although ideally 20,000mm. Anything rated at just 10,000mm simply won’t cut it and you’ll only find yourself returning to the Village early on your first day and paying on-the-slope prices for better gear.

Whilst average minimum temperatures in winter in the Australian fields hover around 0 to -4^o, Whistler can range from -5^o to -15^o, so make sure you’re suitably insulated.

A word about etiquette: Unlike Australia, wearing a helmet is considered de rigueur at Whistler, so if you don’t own one, be sure to hire one.

Where to Stay

There are loads of options for you, depending (obviously) on how much you’re prepared to spend. Hotels, lodges, self-contained homes, condominiums, and hostel-type options are all available.   Don’t feel compelled or obliged to stay “close to the Village”. There are plenty of options close in and around Whistler Village; the Upper Village; and Creekside, and plenty of shuttles to get you around if you don’t have your own wheels. Whilst Creekside is a five minute drive from the main Village, it’s well serviced by its own shops, supermarkets, restaurants, bars, and outlets. The queues for the morning gondola up to the slopes are significantly shorter and quicker at Creekside, so it’s a great option if you just want to get up the mountain quickly and hit the slopes.

There are many options at Creekside and Upper Village that offer ski-in / ski-out access to the slopes, but bear in mind these are on the lower slopes which may be compromised or not accessible in the earlier parts of the season if there’s been insufficient snowfalls.

For those in self-catered accommodation who appreciate good quality ingredients (including beautiful meats from the butcher); GREAT wines and craft beers, etc, be sure to visit the shops at Nesters, a short two or three minute drive north up the highway from the Village.

Ski School

If you need to brush up on your technique, or if you have young ones / friends in your group who are starting out, the Whistler Blackcomb ski school is fantastic. There’s a diverse range of group lessons and packages that cater for all age ranges. The instructors are great; the facilities and features are excellent; and there’s a package to suit everyone from the first-timer to the experienced campaigner.   You can also choose your duration, ranging anywhere between one and five days. Food and catering is provided with the kids’ programs.

The Village

Whistler has three separate little CBD’s, namely the Village, the Upper Village, and Creekside. The latter two are comparatively smaller, and it’s the Village that’s the main hub. The bulk of the shops, services, restaurants, cafes, and outlets are in the Village, and there’s plenty here to keep you amused if you want to take a rest from the slopes (including a multiplex cinema!) There’s also plenty here on offer for those who need retail therapy. For those with a sweet tooth, the excellent Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory shop near the Village Gondola is an essential visit.

Pubs & Dining

There’s a huge range of dining and drinking options in the Village (and at Upper Village and Creekside), with something for every budget. For those with a bit more cash, the dining at both Araxi and Il Caminetto is spectacularly spectacular (world class, in fact), albeit with accompanying prices. For the budget conscious, there’s no shortage of pizza/pasta places, as well as plenty of ribs/burger joints. For great quality, good value family eating and comfort food, try the likes of Earls Kitchen and Bar in the Village. For some of the best pizza you’ll taste in North America, check out Creekbread over at Creekside. (Sadly they don’t deliver, so you’ll need to dine in or arrange your own pick up). If you’re over at Creekside, Dusty’s Bar & BBQ is also a good option, particularly for family dining with kids.

Irish pubs can get a bit ubiquitous and monotone after a while, but the Dubh Linn Gate pub at the foot of the Excaliber Gondola in the Village has a fun vibe and atmosphere; great food; live music with a celtic flavour; and it’s family-friendly, too. There’s a HUGE range of beers and a respectable selection of whiskies.

Coffee

This is North America. If you like good coffee, bring your own beans and espresso machine with you from home. That being said, Il Caminetto in the Village makes superb flat whites and cappuccino, albeit only for sit-down diners at lunch and dinner.

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So that’s our guide to Whistler, Vancouver, Whisky, and Skiing.  If you have any updates or other thoughts you’d like to share for the benefit of readers, post your thoughts in the Comments section below.

Cheers,
AD