Located up in the north-east of Scotland, Glenglassaugh is yet another of the many previously-obscure Scottish whiskies to have received a new lease on life and be thrust into the limelight following a change of ownership. Like so many others in this category, it has a long if not chequered history that has seen numerous changes in ownership, periods of silence, and stuttered reincarnations. Like its stablemate Benriach, Glenglassaugh is now on the happy receiving end of love and investment from Brown Forman, culminating in the recent launch of a new single malt core-range for the brand. The range now incorporates the Glenglassaugh 12yo, the Sandend, and the Portsoy.
To appreciate the significance of this, a brief history of the distillery history is warranted: The distillery was founded back 1875, but by 1960 it had already experienced four different owners and two separate but long periods of closure that total 47 years of silence – more than half its life at that time. The distillery again sat dormant and unloved from 1986 until 2008 when it was then acquired by new owners. Within a year production was up and running again, and 2012 saw a small Visitor Centre added. It is worth adding that Glenglassaugh is a relatively small distillery in Scottish terms (certainly in terms of volume and production capacity), and it’s also some distance away from the more popular and well-worn whisky tourism areas of Speyside. The distillery is roughly a 40 minute car drive north-east from Dufftown / Glenfiddich; it’s thus only the more dedicated whisky enthusiasts that make the effort to visit, or simply those enjoying the spectacular scenery along that run of northern coastline.
Images of the distillery. Click to enlarge
The distillery’s fortunes took a further turn when it was acquired by Benriach Distillery Co in 2013 (more commonly associated with Billy Walker) and some new releases saw the light of day. With the sale of Walker’s portfolio to Brown Forman in 2016, the new owners acquired Glenglassaugh, together with its stablemates, Benriach and Glendronach. A series of disjointed Glenglassaugh releases came and went over the next few years (always governed by the limited stock available due to the previous periods of closure), but the new range released in 2023 restores a more coherent language and brand.
Despite its punctuated history, one thing that’s been constant along Glenglassaugh’s trajectory has been the quality of its spirit. When filled into quality casks, it is a whisky that shines and delivers. Perhaps by virtue of sitting silent and forgotten for so many years, it’s also accumulated an impressive inventory of long-matured stock, allowing it to release significantly aged and older whiskies. Recent examples have included releases with age statements boasting 30, 35, 41, and 50 years!
Many of Scotland’s distilleries boast about their soft water; in contrast, Glenglassaugh’s water is hard and extremely mineral-rich. (The distillery claims their water has the highest mineral content of any distillery on Scotland’s mainland). As the image above indicates, Glenglassaugh is very much a coastal distillery, and it’s the distillery’s connection with the sea that inspires and drives the new range. From the names of the expressions to the subtle maritime spray in the glass, each of the three whiskies has something unique and impressive to recommend it. Whisky & Wisdom was fortunate to recently attend a launch event that showcased the three whiskies, so let’s look at the range:
Glenglassaugh 12 Year Old, 45% ABV
The 12 year old exhibits that soft coastal note that isn’t necessarily briny or seaweedy, but is still present enough for you to make the connection. (Bruichladdich’s “Classic Laddie” also achieves this, as do older expressions of Oban). The whisky is a marriage of spirit that has been matured in bourbon, sherry, and red wine casks. The red wine casks’ influence is palpable, bringing fruits to the fore such as red currants, cherries, and dark plums. It’s a wonderful dram, certainly robust and tasty, and – if food matching takes your fancy – it pairs beautifully with milk chocolate. Bottled at 45% ABV, RRP is A$110.
Glenglassaugh Sandend, 50.5% ABV
The name comes from Sandend Bay, which is the bay upon which the distillery sits. (See pictures above). The Sandend has been matured in bourbon, sherry, and manzanilla casks. (Yes, manzanilla is also a sherry, so we’ll assume that the sherry casks referred to are ex-oloroso casks. Confused? You might like to take a quick excursion to our helpful article, “The whisky lovers complete guide to sherry.”)
Manzanilla is a dry sherry and said to occasionally display a coastal saltiness, so its use in the Sandend expression – which celebrates Glenglassaugh’s proximity to the ocean – is particularly apt. That said, Rachel Barrie, the Master Blender behind the whisky, shared that the use of sherry casks brings out salted caramel on the whisky, and she’s not wrong! There are also hints of gorse; it’s stony and mineralic, and it’s a very enjoyable dram with the higher alcohol working a treat. Close your eyes as you sip this; it’s hard not to imagine you’re on the beach.
The Sandend has been bottled at a higher strength of 50.5% ABV, and has an RRP of A$120.
Portsoy, 49.1% ABV
Portsoy is the neighbouring harbour village just five kilometres east of the distillery, and it’s an altogether different whisky, courtesy of the malt being peated. The spirit has been matured in bourbon, sherry, and port casks, with both the peat and the port combining to make this a particularly full-flavoured affair. No, the peating isn’t at Islay levels, so don’t go in expecting a Lagavulin or Laphroaig, but there’s a very elegant peatiness and maritime character that evokes hints of oysters and langoustines…the peat adds a coastal note, rather than a smoky note. The port casks add a touch of dryness to the spirit’s mouthfeel, and there’s also some dried spices to be enjoyed. We had a hard time deciding if this was our favourite in the line-up…eventually concluding that if the Sandend takes you to the sand on the beach, the Portsoy takes you out on to the rocks.
The Portsoy has been bottled at 49.1% ABV and has an RRP of A$132.
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Needless to say, we enjoyed all three Glenglassaugh whiskies – it’s a well-assembled range that showcases the distillery’s spirit as well as its geography. The new Glenglassaugh range is out now and available in all good whisky stockists.
Cheers,
AD
PS: Thinking of travelling up north to visit Glenglassaugh? You might like our helpful article, 10 things every whisky lover should know before visiting Scotland.
Image credits: Banner photo by Jaimie Wilson. Distillery photos by Whisky & Wisdom. Sandend Bay by Ted and Jen. Bottle photos supplied by Brown Forman.
